The development of a summer cottage, where nothing cultural has grown for a long time, is not a quick matter. How to make beds that will give a good harvest next year? The well-known gardener and gardener Nikolai Kurdyumov tells how to improve clay soil, sandy and how do-it-yourself beds differ from ordinary ones.
My friend in his youth lived in the famous village of Starocherkasskaya, the capital of the Don Cossacks. Don floodplain, meadow chernozems, two meters high, soft. And his garden was also on the site of the old regimental stables.
I remember he sincerely complained: well, it's a real torment to harvest! Potatoes in weeds - almost a bucket from a bush, beets - two pieces no longer fit into a bucket! Of course, to improve such soil is only to spoil it. It is enough for her to return as much organic matter as has grown on it. And digging it is a crime. But we have few such happy places. My friend is just lucky.
For us, simple clayey, in order to achieve good fertility, we need to work with the soil. And in order not to wait years, it is better to immediately improve the soil in the beds - the first and last time, but dramatically. Oh, how many times I regretted not doing it right away!
Soil improvement during site development: where to start
If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and, if possible, a fine screening of expanded clay. If it is poor sandy loam, clay and humus are needed. In both cases, a third of the new volume of the beds should be organic, rotted to varying degrees. And only a peat bog needs fresh nitrogenous organics: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unusable grain or spoiled feed. And also some clay and sand.
Renowned Austrian permaculturist and nature farmer Sepp Holzer uses his method to rapidly build up humus reserves in extremely poor soils and harsh climates. A trench 40–50 cm deep and of the same width is dug in place of the beds. It is clogged with dry trunks, branches, rotten. This is the primary supply of slow organics and a "sponge" for moisture during the drought.
Then the trench is dug in, and in the Sepp version, the earth is thrown from the sides, fitting into a rampart 70–100 cm high. The meaning of the rampart is a huge difference in microclimate. Sunny windward side - hot and dry. Sunny lee - hot and humid, subtropics. Shady without wind - humid and not hot, shady with wind - not hot, but it blows out moisture.
On the shady side, the plants will climb up the ridge. In the sun - they will bush and fly, like on the beach. Given all this, Sepp sows the shaft with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and squash, beans, corn and sunflowers - everything that has large seeds and quickly increases biomass.
By the way, the area of the slopes of the rampart is one and a half of the area of its base.
The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from the wind with branches, and the branches with longitudinal poles. The great dignity of the shaft - early and fast heating of the soil. A trench formed between the ridges - branches were also placed in it and covered with straw. The roots will reach here too.
Sowing is done directly into the straw using a pointed peg. Seeds germinate after rains. All plant residues remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes are planted here, and various rutabaga with turnips, and pumpkins with zucchini, and on top - a wall of corn.
Beautiful, deep, natural! But to be honest, this is for the most enthusiastic permaculture and personally Sepp owners of a hectare. For my garden, three acres is not an option. We are not accustomed to climbing steep ramparts and unraveling freely mixed bushes. We do not know the behavior of different plants so much. I won't take it from the air. So I'm leaning towards more conventional methods.
In my early books - "according to John Jevons". In fact, all smart gardeners and growers do this. But it just so happened: Jevons wrote a bestseller, I read it in the late 90s and was impressed.
John is an American organ farmer and hard worker, the inventor of "bio-intensive mini-agriculture" (BIMZ). The yields from his beds were many times larger than traditional ones - you must admit, this is impressive.
He began to invent on extremely bad, poor soil. Therefore, I improved it immediately, and then increased fertility not from scratch. The meaning is simple: you need to mix the soil with organic matter (and, if necessary, with sand or clay) to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel. Well, two bayonets - this is in hot California. One and a half (35-40 cm) is enough for us. And three or four spades wide.
Jevons suggests mixing the soil with the additives as you work your way up the bed: take off the top layer, mix the bottom with compost, put the top layer back on, mix it with the compost, move a little further... I keep it simple. Improving my clay bed with sand, I take out the most fertile top layer entirely and fold it from the edge. I mix additives into the bottom and return the top layer to its place, also mixing something.
The top, most organic layer is taken out, it is on the left. The bottom is mixed with sand. The top layer is returned in the same way with sand. This is the only way I have been able to drastically reduce the density of my clay soil. The comfort zone for the roots has almost doubled in depth. It remains to re-structure the soil - this will be done by worms and roots.
So let's take the best of both worlds. We take out the top 10–15 cm of the most fertile soil. We deepen the bottom with a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel. In the trench - logs and thick branches, but not thick, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly restored.
It is harmless to lightly powder this windbreak with some kind of nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it with a dung mash or the contents of a dry closet - it will rot faster. It is useful to throw in some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. In the dry south it is exceptionally harmless to pour hydrogel, circles per square meter.
We return down the subsoil from the trench, pushing it between the pieces of wood. We scatter the excess subsoil in the aisles or take it away. At the bottom we put one or two strips of immature compost or grass, flavored with EM, "Shine" or another bioactivator. Then we fill the bed with the top layer taken out, interspersed with additives (sand / clay) and humus.
It turns out a raised bed - a convex gentle shaft. The bulge adds a lot of space and light to the plants, and in the spring it better receives the sun's rays. For the damp Non-Black Earth Region and - an ideal option for do-it-yourself beds. In the steppe zone, you need and.
In the photo - beds-ridges on the site of Irina Kalmykova on Taman. They warm up much earlier and better. Here, in a very dry area, they are covered with a special mulch film, under which drip tapes lie.
The result of our sweating: the bed is ready to immediately give a decent harvest. The difference is visible in the first year. Look at the photo. Three cucumber bushes on the right are on improved soil, two on the left are on normal soil. Garden L. Lobanov, Ivanovo.
In the next photo, the soil on the right is also improved. Filling with organics and bioactivator at the same time added warmth to the soil. Eggplant yield is 9 times more than from the left control bush. Experience of A. Bushikhin, Yaroslavl.
Already a lot! But this is only the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by living creatures, not structured, not pierced by roots, not sown with coprolites of worms and other poop. Now we will improve it every year with natural forces: plants, worms, microbes and fungi. But it is already easy. Our main business is feed the soil workers and all kinds of organic matter. Another important work don't disturb them. The rest they will do themselves. And I assure you - they will make it as wonderful as you never dreamed of.
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Probably, each person has a time to create his own garden. This is a wonderful time when we are already ripe for creation, man-made creativity for decades. The Garden of Eden will be born before our eyes, and the fruits of labor will remain for children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren. In this article, we will tell you how to create a garden from scratch, we will determine the aspects that you should pay attention to when choosing a land plot, we will tell you what the land for gardens should be like.
Selection of land
Before you create a garden, you need to decide on the choice of land. It is definitely not necessary to choose land for a garden in winter, when there is snow, and it is impossible to understand what is hidden under it: marshy hummocks, a local reservoir, bare sands, remnants of construction debris.
It happens that due to inexperience and under the pressure of circumstances, people agree to buy a "pig in a poke" under the snow at a low price. They come to the site in the spring, and there is waist-deep water ... Experienced gardeners can tell beginners that land for gardens was allocated, as a rule, on inconvenient, marshy peat bogs (it's good if drained, but this is rare), on clay heavy waterlogged soils, In the woods. It took decades to cultivate such areas. But now they often sell already fully cultivated lands that can be used without drastic changes. However, there are still the same forest damp soils intended for gardening.
It is important to clearly decide for yourself: what kind of garden you want to create. This largely depends on the choice of land. The most reasonable approach is to use natural givenness, and not to remake the earth, the climate. Even at the cost of great effort and expense, a radical reorganization of soils will not last long, the natural nature of the earth and locality will constantly manifest itself and require new labor and means. After all, nature has been creating soils for thousands of years, but we usually don’t think about it, we use them as our property, not realizing that we are guests on earth, and the soil will remain for future generations, and you can’t harm it, destroy it! It is easier to save the soil than to restore it for many years.
In early spring, it is already clear what the site is: waterlogged or almost dry, what kind of vegetation is on it and what soil properties it is talking about. It is useful to see the land after heavy rains in summer or autumn - the water regime of the site is very important, it determines, like the type of soil, the possibility or impossibility (difficulty) to create a fruit and berry, ornamental garden, orchard on it.
Soil features
Let's say right away that the presence of natural vegetation in the form of alder, willow, sedge, cattail, reeds, green mosses on the site indicates waterlogging and increased acidity of the soil. Areas with high acidity of soils are unsuitable for creating an orchard. For its cultivation, a lot of expenses will be required: melioration (draining of the land); neutralization of high acidity by adding lime, chalk, dolomite flour; importation of a large amount of fertile land, peat, sand. But in such a lowland area, you can get a wonderful natural-style ornamental garden with an emphasis on acidophiles (plants that prefer and grow successfully in acidic soils). By diverting excess water with the help of drainage ditches along the perimeter of the site, you will plant a garden of luxurious rhododendrons, the flowering of which from late spring to mid-summer surpasses the beauty and originality of the flowering of the recognized queen of flowers - roses. Heathers, conifers, their species and varieties are perfectly combined with rhododendrons, a great variety is now available: spruces, pines of decorative forms, arborvitae, junipers, yews. Such a garden will be decorated with openwork varietal and forest ferns, forest graceful flowers, as well as a fair amount of coastal flowers: irises, calamus and Siberian, loosestrife, loosestrife, astilbes, bergenia, brunner, forget-me-nots, periwinkles, bathing suits, primroses and many others. Therefore, to a large extent, “suitable - not suitable” for you, the site depends on the specific goal and tasks facing you.
How to create a garden. First steps
Whether to uproot trees and how many, which ones to leave also depends on what kind of garden you want to create. Experienced gardeners have been convinced for decades that it is better to be friends with nature, appreciating its “mercies”. We only note that for fruit-bearing trees and shrubs, in addition to suitable soil and water regime, good sunlight throughout the day is absolutely necessary. In the shade (places in the area where the sun shines for half a day), fruit trees do not bear fruit, and ornamental plants for the most part do not bloom. When planning the location of buildings and landings on the site, it must be borne in mind that all verticals will cast a shadow half their height, and only shade-tolerant ornamental plants are planted in these places. And yet, even if it is planned to plant an orchard, some of the beautiful pines, birches, firs on the outskirts of the site are left to create a forest garden with natural vegetation - heather, blueberries, mosses, ferns, decorative conifers, rhododendrons and exquisite flowers. Here you can also arrange mushroom glades, since the mycelium of a wide variety of mushrooms can now be easily bought.
Drainage of the soil in the garden area
The first thing to do on a forest, peat, swampy area- dry it. Why is it so important divert excess water from the site if there is water on the surface of the earth, or is the level of groundwater standing above 1 m from the surface? Because the roots of trees and shrubs, penetrating deeper into the soil by more than a meter, end up in water, experience oxygen starvation, which leads to disruption in the development of plants and their death. To drain excess water (after snow melts), open drainage ditches 0.6 - 0.8 m deep are dug along the perimeter of the site with a slope to the well, the main gardening ditch, and the reservoir. It is reasonable to dig a pond in the lowland part of the garden, where there is water, and bring out the perforated pipes of the closed drainage laid along the site. But if the water stagnates only in a small area due to the presence of a clay subsoil layer, local drainage is used. They dig several vertical pits to the aquifer, fill them with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, and finally cover them with the removed top layer of fertile soil.
Determination of soil type
It is important to determine the mechanical composition of the soil in your area: peat, clay, sand, their mixture in various proportions. A simple method has long been used: picking up a handful of moist earth, roll it into a tourniquet in the palms of your hands. If the tourniquet turned out, did not fall apart, and it can be bent into a ring - this heavy clay soil. It slowly and poorly warms up by the sun, poorly passes water and air, causing plants to suffer. At the same time, clay soils are nutritious, have a high moisture capacity, and require loosening due to the introduction of sand and peat up to half the volume of the existing soil.
If an experienced tourniquet from the soil turned out to be cracked or torn, you got loamy soils and it's the best possible. They are suitable for any plants, fertile, warm up normally, water and breathable. They are limed every 4-5 years with increased acidity, compost is added to the tree trunks and a decent harvest is harvested, both fruits, berries and vegetables. Flowers and ornamental shrubs will delight the gaze of the gardener and his guests. If necessary, groundwater is diverted through the installation of drainage ditches.
If, when rolling, even a ball of soil crumbles, then this sandy soils. They are quickly and well warmed up by the sun, water and breathable, but poor and sour. Nutrients are easily washed out of them with rainfall and watering. They are improved by introducing finely lumpy clay, humus, compost, fertile land, sowing green manure (fast-growing annual grasses) and incorporating them into the soil, as well as liming. When preparing seats for trees and shrubs, to retain moisture and nutrients, a layer of clay or a dense film, or a flat container with crushed stone, gravel, which is covered with prepared nutrient soil in accordance with the requirements of a particular plant, has to be laid on the bottom of the pit. As for ornamental plants, wild xerophytes (drought-resistant plants) live on sandy and sandy loamy soils, rockeries (rocky gardens) are arranged on them, many ground covers bloom and winter excellently here: dozens of species of sedum (sedum), thyme, arabis, obrieta, young , yaskolki, yasnotki, carnations, iberis, saxifrage, cereals and other perennials.
A little about peat soils
It must also be said about peat soils, there are many of them in horticulture and forests of the northwest, the middle zone. sign thin peatlands with long and constant waterlogging- the growth of reeds, cattail, soddy pike, sedges, reeds, rushes, green mosses on them. Raised sphagnum bogs are obtained on the site of former lakes. Over time, peat is formed from moss: on top - riding fibrous red, below and at a fairly large depth (up to 2 m) - crumbly lowland, almost black. This black lowland peat is a very valuable substrate for gardening, on its basis, after draining, liming, adding sand, meadow soil and compost, very fertile soils suitable for any garden plants are formed. On drained swamps, rhododendrons, cypresses, hemlocks, junipers and other conifers, hydrangeas will grow beautifully, which will give the garden a unique charm, the charm of bright flowering against the background of various shades of greenery of coniferous plants. Rare species of forest orchids, cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries (now in cultivated varieties), wild rosemary, daphne (wolfberry) and many exquisite forest flowers and herbs grow in their original form on an uncultivated swamp. If such rarities are on your site, it is worth keeping such a corner without interference, only supplementing it with natural views, and as a result, get a unique reserved garden.
But pure peat has special, unfavorable properties: it easily dries out and then does not get wet, often ignites over large areas during drought; waterlogged, peat does not dry for a long time, plants without oxygen at the roots suffer, get wet, die. Only marsh species and plants of water meadows can grow on flooded peat, which is clearly not enough for a full-fledged garden. The ability of peat to get wet and dry creates instability for buildings, paving paths. It is recommended to pave the paths with saw cuts or short slabs of wooden beams, while it is known from experience that a tree in peat is better preserved than on ordinary garden soil. If you use stone for paving, then without a concrete bundle, since in the spring the movement of the soil will still break the solid paving. It is reasonable to make dry masonry, without holding the stones together. Moderate constant moisture is necessary for a garden on peat bogs, otherwise, when dried out, peat will take moisture from plants, burn their roots, and also from fire safety.
Soil acidity
Soil acidity- an important indicator of their quality and suitability for the successful cultivation of specific crops. To assess the acidity, the acidity of the soil solution (pH) is used. Soils are considered acidic at a pH of 3 to 5.5; from 5 - 6 to 6.4 - slightly acidic; at 6.5 to 7.2 - neutral; at 7.5 and more - alkaline. The acidity of the soil solution is determined in the agrochemical laboratory when soil samples are taken there at the site. But you can also independently find out how acidic the soil in your area is with the help of litmus paper (sold in garden stores). To do this, a handful of soil is poured into a container with distilled water and thoroughly stirred to the consistency of sour cream, litmus paper is immersed in the solution. It turns red in an acidic environment and blue in an alkaline environment. Soil acidity kits are available in chemical stores, where there is a scale for matching a specific reaction of a soil solution to pH.
Most of the cultivated garden fruit and berry plants, flowers, lawn grasses prefer slightly acidic and neutral soils. But there are also lovers of acidic soils, which were mentioned above. Liming of acidic soils is necessary to increase the fertility and friability of the soil, since nitrogen-fixing bacteria living on the roots of leguminous plants, as well as microorganisms free-living in the soil, activate their vital activity in a slightly acidic and neutral environment. They are able to absorb nitrogen from the air and transfer it in an accessible form to the roots of cultivated plants. The limed environment becomes more comfortable for the vital activity of microorganisms that decompose plant residues in the soil, making it more fertile.
On increased soil acidity indicate herbs naturally growing on the ground: horsetail, creeping buttercup, horse sorrel, sparrow; oak veronica, oxalis, field toriza. The initial stage of bogging is present on the ground, where creeping ranunculus, cranked buckwheat, mountaineer crayfish neck grow. (To figure out what exactly grows on the site, it is useful to have a field atlas - “Plants of Central European Russia”, where there are illustrations and a brief description of about 700 species of wild plants). On acidic soils (pH 3 - 5.5), fruit and berry crops develop poorly, excess acidity must be neutralized with ash, slaked lime, chalk, dolomite flour, marl, shale and peat ash, metallurgical production slag, cement dust. Lime materials are applied every 4-5 years, in autumn or spring for digging at a dose of 400 - 600 g per square meter on medium and heavy loamy soils, 250 - 400 g per square meter. meter on sandy and light loamy soils. Ash is usually produced in abundance on the site after the removal of excess weed trees and burning of waste. Its dose is 2 - 10 times higher than limestone (chalk), while ash is a valuable potash fertilizer, contains magnesium necessary for plants. Such doses of liming lead to a decrease in acidity to 5.5. If the soil is very acidic (high-moor peat with pH 3), then liming is carried out two years in a row so that too much dose does not lead to a sharp alkalization of the soil. You can not make lime at the same time as manure - nitrogen is lost. First, lime is scattered, embedded in the soil, then manure is applied. In the same way, they do not combine the application of lime materials and ammonia forms of fertilizers: in this case, lime is applied in the fall, nitrogen - in the spring, so that it is not washed out by precipitation.
indicator slightly acidic and almost neutral the soil is used by the growth of other herbs: creeping wheatgrass, odorless chamomile, field bindweed, meadow clover, creeping; garden bodjak, snotty, self-sowing poppy.
Index good fertile soil with a high nitrogen content - stinging nettle and vegetable thistle, growing precisely on neutral rich soils. Of the tree species, the “predecessor” of the orchard are maple, mountain ash, oak, wild rose, as well as herbs: legumes (clover, alfalfa, vetch, sweet clover) and meadow grasses. But keep in mind that on nitrogen-rich soils, plants are less frost-resistant.
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Chernozem, chernozem, fertility ... And it dries into stone. One year after mulching with hay was a very loose spring, but with mulch - tight.
What can loosen? Some advise adding sand and peat. I don’t know how sand is, but peat ... The soil is already acidic, why voluntarily acidify it additionally?
Read more tips:
High soil density can be caused by high sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to exclude liquid humate fertilizers, which contain sodium. The addition of compost or manure, limestone flour or peat will help increase the looseness of the soil.
To make the soil loose, I would bring in a sunflower husk machine, and if you want to have depleted and acidic soil, then bring in sand and peat.
- "In the autumn you sow rye, in the spring you dig as late as possible and that's it." Well, I'm wary of rye, but in general green manure should help. Although - a great discussion of green manure and whether they benefit
Not bad helps (if it is possible) to import a couple of humus machines, add buckwheat husks, add sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my friends does this - after weeding the weeds, she digs them along the paths, and the next year she makes beds on them.
Use peat, compost or rotted manure, it's good to add ash or lime. All this is laid out on the future bed and carefully dug up with a shovel, and then shake everything again with a pitchfork. And that's it. In the fall, after harvesting a super-harvest, you can add more peat and ash to the garden bed and again gently shake the soil with a pitchfork, picking out any debris. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen with a pitchfork and you can plant again.
Humus, mulch, green manure, rast. residue through a grinder. The earth became like fluff.
He brought everything to the beds: sand. manure, peat, ash, compost, foliage, pine needles, mowed grass. Watered with the biological product "Renaissance". As a result of many years of effort, soil appeared on the beds instead of clay. In recent years, I have been using another method: I simply take out lumps of clay from the garden and dump them outside the site into a dump.
Local hotheads brought sawdust to the potato ridges on a dump truck. The ridge was dug up with sawdust. After that, there was no potato harvest for 3 years at all.
I decided to use sawdust last spring. I did as the specialists recommend: I added mineral fertilizers to sawdust: a lot of nitrogen and little phosphorus and potassium. The decrease in the potato yield on these 2 experimental beds was very noticeable: about 2 times. This season, the recovery of the yield of these 2 beds began.
[I soaked the sawdust in a solution of urea and laid it on the paths. In autumn, everything loosened up, the beds were planned in a new way]
To increase fertility [on clay], I would do this (preparing the beds): I removed the top layer of fertile soil to clay, poured clay with infusion of compost, manure, and added baker's yeast at the rate of 20g per bucket of water. + a third of a glass of jam. It turned out "lake", then I take a crowbar and make indentations in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get - the yeast, getting into the clay, begins to loosen the clay, releasing carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities are filled with a nutrient medium of diluted organic matter. And so we get a more structured soil
With my soil [granite and granite screenings + 8 KAMAZ chernozem] (on sandy the same technology) I make similar "lakes" only instead of yeast I add klester (I cook from flour)
And about the potato harvest - he loves warmth, long daylight hours, loose soil rich in potassium. (in potato tops 30-40% potassium)
If you invite earthworms as rippers, they will work almost for free. Well, only food waste, grass and a little manure. They worked for me.
The book "Ploughman's Madness" about the cultivation of such a site
Natalia Gerasimova
Synopsis of OD in the preparatory group “Soil is a living earth. Who creates the soil?
Performed: educator MADOU CRR d / s No. 110, Kaliningrad Gerasimova N. E.
TARGET:
Introducing children to the concept the soil"based on experiments, its composition and value for all inhabitants of the plant and animal world Earth.
TASKS:
1) Cognitive research, to form the skill of experimental activities;
2) Communicative; to teach children to reflect, formulate and generalize the results of experiments, interact with each other;
3) Speech and game: to teach to communicate in the process of an ecological game, to encourage the development of fantasy, to form the ability to express one's thoughts; instill a respect for nature in the process of elementary labor activity;
4) Motor: enable active movement through the alternation of species activities: conversation, experiments, physical minute, work with the model " the soil- relationship with the environment, role-playing game, labor activity;
5) Perception of folklore: proverbs about earth.
EQUIPMENT:
PC and presentation "Composition soil"," diagram-poster composition soil", For experiments: samples soil, glasses of water, magnifiers, leaf samples, proverbs, for games: leaves, cups with earth(according to the number of children, headbands with the image of a tree - 2 pcs., and with the image of an earthworm - 2 pcs., a hoop - 4 pcs., 8 watering cans for watering.
Course of the lesson:
educator: - Nature has an amazing pantry, put a handful of grain in it in spring - and by autumn you will take a whole bag. A bucket of potatoes in this pantry turns into ten buckets. A handful of seeds becomes a scattering of cucumbers and tomatoes, carrots and beets, bunches of radishes and dill. What do you guys think, what is it? (answer Earth, the soil) .
Today we will talk to you about soil, find out what it consists of, who lives in it, and how we can save it.
What is the soil?
What do you think kids? (children answer)
teacher: - You know guys, but it turns out Earth exists for millions of years. Once upon a time, long ago the earth had no such soil like now, there were no plants. Seas and oceans arose, mountains, volcanoes appeared and then collapsed under the influence of heat, water and cold, and as a result, clay, sand and other minerals appeared, and then
plants and animals appeared. And now, tens of millions of years later, the planet The earth took the form, to which we are accustomed and now, we see such soil.
SHOW MULTIMEDIA PRESENTATION "COMPONENT SOILS".
Of course you are right soil is earth. We used to call it that by the name of our planet Earth. We all walk along earth. In dry weather, we grumble that there is a lot of dust, and in rainy weather, that it is too dirty. But dust and dirt are not proto Earth. Under our feet the soil is the correct name. She waters and feeds the plants in the warm season, when all nature blooms, and then the flowers turn into fruits (spring, summer, but this warm period is replaced by a cool season that brings us gifts - autumn, and there comes a moment when the trees begin to drop leaves, preparing for winter, they shelter their nurse- earth(or whatever they call it soil) thick blanket of dry leaves: yellow, red, orange, and we can also see the fruits that have fallen on earth: acorns, nuts, apples, pears, many of them are already covered with brown spots of rot. And they have one road, as the folk say proverb: "From lands have come, V the earth will be gone".
And what does it mean? (children's answers).
The fact is that there is only soil where plants grow and vice versa, the plants themselves are the source of material for the structure soil.
The secret is that all these fallen leaves and eyelids rot, and various underground inhabitants are involved in this, invisible to our eyes. - And who remembers what animals are involved in creating humus? (children's answers).
What do you think it consists of the soil? (children's answers).
That's right, children soil is sand, clay, humus, in soil has water, air. We will now test this experimentally.
EXPERIENCE #1. IN soil has air. It is breathed by many animals from the underworld. Take a glass of water and throw a ball into it soil. What conclusion can be drawn from the results of the experiment. Conclusion: we see bubbles that rise to the top. And this means that in soil has air.
EXPERIENCE #2. Compound soil. We place soil in a glass of water. After a while, we will see that sand settled at the bottom of the glass, the water turned cloudy from above due to clay, and garbage floats on the surface, plant roots - this is humus. Conclusion: the soil in its composition has humus, sand, clay.
EXPERIENCE #3. We also said that in soil has water That's why plants grow. - Where does it come from? soil? (children's answers).
That's right, kids. Water gets into soil when it rains or when watering. It penetrates deep and remains in free places between particles. soil.
Let's take an alcohol lamp, heat up a room land, covering the form with glass, and look at the glass. Conclusion: on the glass we see water droplets evaporated as a result of calcination soil which means you can live there.
Please tell me which soil do you know the inhabitants? (children's answers).
Who lives under earth?
The soil gives shelter to many plants and animals. So good they get along together. Look how they live, help each other. Plants grow in soil take nutrients from it. And the time comes - autumn, when plants: trees, shrubs, herbs, flowers fall off losing their leaves and fruits, and then the amazing work of the invisible world of animals begins, hiding under a layer of leaves and in earth(a story about the processing of leaves, so humus is created which provides plants with many nutrients.
Today it is cloudy, but a cheerful song about the sun calls us to have a little rest.
PHYSMINUTKA "RADIANT SUN".
Well done, what do you think the soil only for plants? (children's answers). Let's go to the poster and see what is important soil and for whom? Poster conversation.
Well, it's time to play the game. Now we will see how the leaves turn into soil.
GAME "TREES AND WORMS".
Children are divided into 2 teams. Each team has its own "worm" and soy "tree". At one end of the room on the floor on the same line, but at a distance, put two hoops. These will be the "minks" of worms. From each team, a child is allocated to play the role of an earthworm. He becomes in a circle, here, in a circle on the floor, there are cups with earth. At the opposite end of the room, put two more hoops for children, who will play the role of trees. These children also stand in a circle, they have leaves in their hands. On the head of the children are appropriate headbands. The rest of the participants stand next to each other. At the command of the host "Autumn" - tree children give a leaf to their participant, he runs to the worm and changes it to a glass of earth. Then he returns with it to the tree and gives it back. Team members repeat their actions until the last member brings land to your tree.
Today in class, you learned about the concept the soil. Please remember what it is. What does it consist of, who lives in it? (children's answers).
How can we save ground for these creatures?
What can we do?
What did we learn today? (children's answers)
Do you know guys, we were not in the Winter Garden for 2 days, and the soil has dried up these days, because there are some big plants growing here, they drank all the water, I suggest you do a good deed - water soil and she will water the plants. What do you think they would tell us the soil and the plants of the Winter Garden, if they could speak? Are we taking care of them?
What proverbs about earth you know?
Without a host the earth is an orphan.
IN you won’t lay the ground - and you won’t take it from the ground.
Where not land there is no grass.
Earth is the provider.
And now, I suggest you draw one of the "underground inhabitants" that you liked the most. You can draw a garden or a field that yields crops. Your imagination has no limits. You are such good fellows, you worked very well today.
