Exotic plants are not as difficult to care for as it seems at first glance, but in order to provide them with the necessary growing conditions, it requires an understanding of how the flower makes it clear that unwanted changes are happening to it.
In the care of phalaenopsis, all actions are quite simple, the same applies to the prevention and treatment of diseases.
In this article we tell about the most common diseases with photos.
All diseases, which can occur in this plant, can be divided into groups according to the source of their occurrence:
- incorrect agricultural practices;
- emergence of harmful organisms.
The second group, in turn, can be divided into diseases caused by fungal microorganisms, bacterial and viral.
Success in the fight against disease is directly related to how correctly its cause, source, is identified.
Eliminating the root of the problem and the right approach to treatment will ensure that you can take the necessary measures in a timely manner.
frostbite
Phalaenopsis is one of the plants that must be kept warm, they can tolerate a drop in ambient temperature to + 16 ° C, however, a long stay in these low conditions can lead to the death of the plant.
Phalaenopsis hypothermia can be stated if you notice the following signs: wet slippery spots are visible on the leaves, the appearance of which leads to the further death of the leaf plate.
Photo of frozen orchids.
If you make sure that the phalaenopsis is frozen - what to do? If such spots have affected the entire plant, then it cannot be resuscitated, but if individual parts of the leaf are damaged, you should try to help the flower:
- A part of the damaged sheet is cut off, the cut site is treated with coal powder or an alcohol-free antiseptic;
- If the whole leaf is damaged, then it must be removed completely, while dividing it in half vertically and pulling both ends of the leaf, gently, without damaging the stem, then the stem is powdered with crushed coal or cinnamon.
Important! In no case should you water with warm water immediately after the plant has been in uncomfortable conditions of low temperatures. This will cause a temperature shock and aggravate the situation.
Why are the flowers small?
Don't panic if your orchid has bloomed smaller than the ones you bought it with. Often when adapting to new growing conditions, this flower may slightly change the shape of the leaf or flower.
However, the reason why phalaenopsis has small flowers may be as follows:
- nutritional deficiency. During the period of bud formation, top dressing will help to get larger and brighter flowers;
- lighting level. With a lack of light, flowers can not only change the size of the flowers, but also their number on the peduncle.
Flowers may shrink in low light.
Phytosporin treatment
Phytosporin is a very popular remedy both for preventive treatment of plants from diseases, and for treatment.
Its value lies in the fact that, being a biological drug, it does not harm either the plant or the person, it is safe to use at home.
They are processed in several ways:
- spraying the green mass with a solution;
- watering with the addition of a concentrate to the water.
Phytosporin is sold in the form of a paste, powder and concentrate, its action and effectiveness do not depend on the form, choose the one that is more convenient to use:
- if you have chosen a paste, then to process the phalaenopsis, you need to prepare a solution of 200 ml of water and 100 g of paste. The resulting concentrate is diluted in water at the rate of 4 drops per glass;
Important! When processing, use water that does not contain chlorine!
- if powder is convenient for work, then it is necessary to prepare an agent for combating diseases from it as follows: dissolve 1.5 g in a liter of water;
- a solution is prepared from liquid phytosporin in the ratio of 10 drops of the substance per glass of pure water. The resulting solution is treated with leaf plates or the root system.
Phalaenopsis orchid diseases and their treatment with a photo
Leaves
Orchid leaves can be affected by the following diseases:
- spotting- clearly defined round spots with uneven edges appear on the sheet plate;
- powdery mildew- a white coating appears on the leaves, peduncle and buds, which eventually spreads to most of the green mass.
Leaf spotting.
Powdery mildew.
You can read more about leaf diseases.
If you are interested in why phalaenopsis leaves dry, then read.
Roots
The most common disease of phalaenopsis is root rot, with which:
- leaves lose turgor, turn brown;
- the roots become loose and quickly die off.
Root rot.
Read more about root diseases in.
The buds dry and fall
Phalaenopsis buds can fall off and dry for a number of reasons, the main ones:
- incorrect watering regime;
- dry air;
- lack of basic nutrients;
- insufficient lighting.
You can read more about the reasons for the drying of buds. If you are interested in why the buds fall, then read.
Drying out of the whole plant
Orchids of this species can dry out for several reasons, the main of which are: non-observance of the watering regime and temperature, too dry air. If the roots dry up, then it is possible the appearance of rot.
Pests and their control
Among the pests that can damage the orchid, it is worth highlighting the following:
- ticks- their appearance is accompanied by the appearance of a thin white web on the leaves;
- aphid- it is easy to detect this pest, they are located on the lower part of the leaf plate and are visible to the naked eye: small black and gray dots. In the process of their vital activity, a sticky coating may form on the leaves;
- whiteflies- these are small white flying insects, the vital activity of which adversely affects the condition of the leaf, it turns yellow and dies.
To control these pests it is best to use systemic insecticides such as Fitoverm. Prepare the working solution according to the instructions on the package, observing the frequency of treatments.
In addition, try to optimize care at home and pests will not bother you.
You can get more information about pests and their control from.
Useful videos
Watch a video about orchid diseases and their treatment:
The video below talks about why the buds dry and fall off:
The following video talks about phalaenopsis pests and their control:
Conclusion
Caring for phalaenopsis proper care plays an important role.
When a flower is happy with everything, receives a sufficient amount of moisture, nutrients and sun, it grows with pleasure and optimism, quickly developing a leaf rosette, blooms and pleases the eye!
The orchid has recently become the most popular indoor flower. This is a wonderful gift that any woman would love. Despite the ease of care, often an orchid, once in room conditions after a greenhouse, begins to disappear and wither. To save the orchid from death, urgent measures must be taken as soon as the first signs of a change in appearance are noticed.
Let's take a difficult case right away: the orchid is frozen or dried up. Flower resuscitation begins with an examination of the roots.
How to Save Orchid Roots
- The orchid is carefully removed from the pot and the roots are cleaned of the substrate. First, the soil is removed from the roots, and then the remains of the substrate are thoroughly washed out with a stream of warm water. Having dried the roots of the orchid, we proceed to the study of their condition. Normal live orchid roots are dense in structure. The color of healthy roots can be from whitish, green to light brown. Rotten roots are slippery and soft and have a dark brown color.
- All dead, rotten and dry parts of the root system are cut out with a sharp knife and sprinkled with ground cinnamon or activated charcoal powder for disinfection. Further measures to save the orchid depend on the percentage of healthy roots remaining. Even if 15% of the roots remain healthy, then the orchid can be saved. If the orchid is left completely without roots - do not despair. There is still a chance to restore it. How - we will talk about this a little later.
Now consider ways to resuscitate a diseased orchid.
Method 1 - how to save an orchid that still has enough roots left
After the prevention and cleaning of the roots, the orchid is planted in the usual way in the prepared soil substrate and creates gentle conditions for adaptation:
- Put in a well-lit place, but with shading from direct sun
- Given that damaged roots do not absorb moisture well, the soil is often sprayed from above with a spray bottle.
- Well proven bottom watering for weakened orchids
- If it is not possible to spray and water a diseased orchid several times a day, build a mini greenhouse for it (just cover it with a bag with holes for ventilation)
- Since there are not many roots left, the orchid is fixed in the soil: they stick a stick between the roots and attach the orchid to it
Method 2 - how to save an orchid if there are no roots at all
In this case, a mini greenhouse comes to the rescue. Expanded clay is poured into a spacious pot, and purchased, pest-free moss is placed on top. A damaged orchid is placed on the moss. Everything is well moistened from a spray bottle and covered with a transparent cap. With constant humidity and constant warm temperature, after 2 weeks, the beginnings of roots should appear in the damaged orchid. As soon as the roots grow 4-5 cm, the orchid can be planted in the usual way.
Phalaenopsis, not for nothing is considered an orchid for beginners, it adapts well to the conditions of our living quarters. phalaenopsis care, behind which it is not very complicated, in comparison with orchids of other species, it still requires attention and care, in return, it pays with a long flowering of flowers similar to exotic butterflies.
You should know that phalaenopsis is very thermophilic, in summer, the temperature at which it feels good is +25 -30С, but not more than +32С, in winter, the temperature of its maintenance completely coincides with the comfortable temperature of our homes and is +20 - 25С. At any time of the year, the temperature at night should be 5-6C lower than the daytime temperature, I think this is not difficult to arrange. Temperature fluctuations are very important for the plant, as they ensure the laying of flower buds and it depends on them when your pet blooms. If the temperature exceeds the recommended norms, instead of flowers, you can get an orchid baby on the peduncle. Orchids often standing on the windowsill are exposed to hypothermia in winter, lowering the temperature the next day to +12 - 15C will not bring much harm to the phalaenopsis, but a longer cold snap can destroy the plant. With hypothermia, orchid roots lose their ability to absorb water, and phalaenopsis takes on the appearance of a drought-weary plant, its leaves wither and wrinkle. A common mistake is increased watering, which can lead to root rot, the development of fungal diseases and the inevitable death of the plant. phalaenopsis care, behind which it provides, compliance with the temperature regime should not “freeze”, in order to avoid this, you can put a thermometer next to the pot, and you can always notice temperature changes in time. In the cold season, you need to make sure that the leaves do not touch the cold glass of the window, and a draft is unacceptable in any season. Particular attention should be paid to the temperature, before the orchid begins to bloom, if the temperature drops below +15 - 17C, phalaenopsis can drop buds ready to bloom.
Orchids of this species grow on the bark of trees and are always in the shade of the "parent" tree, therefore they prefer diffused lighting anywhere in the room, but no further than 1 - 1.5 m from the window, it should be placed on the windowsill only to the window facing north . Sunlight is a good substitute for artificial lighting, which is important in winter, since the duration of daylight hours for phalaenopsis should be about 12 hours. Lack of lighting will negatively affect the flowering of the orchid. During the formation of buds, the plant should not be disturbed by turning and rearranging the pot, as soon as the last flower on the peduncle blooms, the orchid can be rearranged and unfolded so that the flowers look most impressive.
phalaenopsis care, for which it provides for proper watering, it is rather capricious to the quality of water. Boiled, melted or purified warm water with a temperature of about + 27C is used. No need to get carried away, too frequent watering can lead to rotting of the roots, between waterings the substrate should dry out enough and allow air to enter for ventilation. You can determine when the time for watering comes by evaluating the moisture content of the pieces of bark taken from the pot, if the pot is transparent, the color of the roots can become a signal for the next watering, from greenish they become light gray. Or you can just weigh the pot in your hands, the substrate requiring watering will be very light. How often to water phalaenopsis you will determine individually, because each room has its own microclimate, in summer an orchid is usually watered every 3 days, and in winter 1 time in 14-15 days, in the off-season 1 time in 7-10 days. When watering, it is important that the substrate is completely saturated with water, the easiest way is to lower the orchid pot into a basin filled with water and leave it there for 20-25 minutes, then remove it and let excess moisture drain. If the substrate inside the pot is still wet, and completely dry on top, just sprinkle it with water, avoid getting water in the middle of the rosette of leaves, this can lead to decay, but if water does get there, it must be blotted with a corner of a napkin or a cotton swab. Phalaenopsis requires high humidity, this can be achieved by placing the pot on a layer of wet expanded clay.
Feeding is of no small importance. For phalaenopsis, only special water-soluble fertilizers intended for orchids are used; the introduction of dry preparations into the substrate can lead to burns of the roots and death of the plant. You can also use preparations for ordinary indoor flowers, but then reduce the fertilizer application rate by 2 - 2.5 times. The frequency of top dressing depends on the season but, as a rule, they are carried out every 3 waterings. During flowering, focus on fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus; during growth, nitrogen-containing supplements are preferable.
Phalaenopsis blooms for a long time, but even after the end of flowering, you should not immediately remove the peduncle, re-blooming often occurs due to the awakening of dormant buds. The peduncle is cut off after it completely dries out.
Phalaenopsis care, behind which it is correctly set, it will delight you with delicate flowers for almost a year for a long time.
With the onset of the cold season, more and more flower growers begin to wonder what to do if the orchid is frozen, how to correct the situation. Despite regular warnings that the plant does not tolerate cold and drafts, it often happens that the leaves of indoor dwellers get frostbite. Initially, you need to learn how to determine when the flower is frozen.
There are several undeniable signs that the flower urgently needs help. The first alarm signal is wet spots on the leaves, which are slimy to the touch. Leaflets that have received frostbite will eventually turn yellow and die. Therefore, when the orchid is frozen, it is necessary to act urgently.
The plant can supercool not only during its trip home, but also if it is kept too cold. For example, for Phalaenopsis orchids to get frostbite, it is enough to stay at a temperature of + 16 for about half an hour. That is, for a flower, any temperature that deviates from the norm down by two to three degrees is fatal. Most amateur beginners who have only recently become acquainted with this plant variety supercool orchids during the daily airing of the room. Leaves can also suffer in winter from contact with cold glass.
What to do?
Before you save an orchid that has frozen, you need to make sure that it can "survive" it. A plant that is completely covered with mucus and becomes soft cannot be restored. You can safely throw it away. You can reanimate a flower when there are wet spots on several of its leaves.
Before the procedure, it is necessary to prepare a sharp new blade, which is pre-treated with an alcohol solution. Spots should be carefully cut straight down to healthy tissue. The cut points are processed using crushed activated carbon; it is possible to use brilliant green or iodine for disinfection only if the cut was made far from the stem.
There is also a separate method on how to revive a frozen orchid if the leaves are damaged close to the stem. To do this, you need to make an incision along the diseased leaf and carefully remove it from the pseudobulb by pulling the tips in different directions. Wounds received after the removal procedure should be generously sprinkled with crushed cinnamon or activated charcoal.
Aftercare is done as usual. The first watering is best done using Zircon, which is added to soft water. Two weeks after the day of resuscitation, the aerial part of the flower should be sprayed with Epin's solution. These substances will help the plant recover faster after serious treatment.
So we see that restoration is possible, however, according to experts, the plant spends a lot of energy in the process of salvation, so you can not wait for the next two years to bloom. In addition, if the orchid froze once, repeated incidents should not be allowed, because repeated resuscitation can work. In order to prevent hypothermia, it is best to remove the pot deep into the room for the winter.
When moving two weeks ago, when it was minus fifteen, the orchid froze. The roots are alive, and the trunk and leaves are blackened. Now the leaves have begun to fall. Maybe someone knows what to do, how to bring the plant back to life?
You probably won't be able to save her...
It is necessary to ask on the specialized forums.
If the leaves were even slightly preserved, I would cut off all the dead ones. I would put it in a bright, not very cold place.
But if the leaves have all turned black and new ones have not yet appeared, then the prognosis is disappointing.
Spirit, and how often should an orchid be watered during the acclimatization stage?
And is it better directly into the bowl or into the pallet?
To be honest, I'm afraid to even touch it, so as not to harm :))
And another question about roots.
Those that crawled out of the bowl up, some dried up ... is that okay?
The flower looks healthy (pah-pah, I wouldn’t jinx it)
Orchids...beauty!!!
I've already propagated three.
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gambling addiction, I have a slightly different look, but the idea is about the same.
1. Water exactly right into the pot. What drains into the pan - pour it out later. The general idea of watering is tropical rain and fast drying. I shower once a week for 5 minutes (right in the bathroom). When watering, it is better not to touch the leaves, otherwise the water may drain into the base and also cause rotting.
For now, I would water in the usual way - when the soil dries out well (it depends on the humidity in the apartment).
2. The roots must be dry, otherwise they rot. When transplanting, you can cut off completely dry dead roots. But that's later... By the way, you can find a video of the transplant - it helps a lot.
Also, it would be nice to know the name of the white beauty (view). And here before I"m your Daddy shone with experience. Maybe add something useful :)
Dahlia, my home from the globe. But it's just lucky. Globus Christmas tree, ficus and something else died with friends. I would personally buy in the Flora Center - there are pots, soil and fertilizers right away.
Dina and how to propagate them?
the essence of maintenance is to provide moisture to the substance for which the roots cling. I water with a warm shower, putting the pots in a container. then I leave it in this container with water for 30 minutes. I water every plant except the flowers. they also like to be in the bathroom while washing. so that there is steam. I water when the roots turn white. in my opinion, the roots should be bright green. I own 3 flowers for half a year. They are still alive((IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)), they have stopped blooming now, new leaves and roots are growing. the flowers look happy. Me too.
Orchids...beauty!!!
Mine are already adults, they are four years old and sometimes bloom twice a year.
Top dressing from March to October - once a week, from November to February - once a month, but the most important thing is love for this delicate flower and constant contact with it :)))
I've already propagated three.
In the photo below there are dendrobiums and fragrant cumbria - everyone is loved!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Can you tell me how to propagate orchids?
