When to plant grapes from cuttings. Growing grapes from cuttings, rooting and planting in the ground

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands never get bored!

Content

A beautiful vineyard is the dream of any gardener. To do this, it is important to be able to grow the desired plant varieties at home from cuttings, choosing the right breeding option. Find out how to grow grapes from cuttings: how to prepare and store shoots, pick them, plant them and care for the grapes.

How to grow grapes from cuttings

Planting grapes from cuttings is a vegetative method. To get a good variety with a successful harvest, it is better to grow grapes from cuttings at home or graft them. Only from healthy grapes you will get a strong shoot that will produce good fruit and will not hurt. In order to master the technique of preparing a scion at home and correctly carry out cuttings of grapes in the spring for propagation, it is important to know the sequence of stages and sequence of actions.

Preparation and storage of cuttings

Growing grapes from cuttings at home begins with harvesting a scion - this is a segment or an entire shoot that has become woody. Start harvesting them in mid-autumn, but no later than the first days of winter. It is imperative to choose shoots with live buds, as well as from healthy and productive grape bushes. The diameter of the cut scion should be at least 1 cm, and the length should be from 4 to 8 buds. The longer the escape, the better. This way in the spring you can select a healthy piece and cut it from the blank.

1. Sort the prepared cuttings and label them using plastic rather than paper labels or attaching a photo. If you cannot process the scions right away, then it is better to dig them in or wrap them in a bag.
2. Soak the chopped shoots thoroughly with water, soaking them for a day.
3. Soak the shoots for thirty minutes in a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect.
4. Dry them with a paper towel, spread them out and dry.
5. After this, wrap the shoots in a plastic bag, tie them tightly and send them for home storage.

In the refrigerator or basement, where the temperature is from 2 to 6 degrees Celsius, or even on the balcony, grape cuttings are perfectly preserved, which can then be planted in the ground in the spring. The main thing is to check them occasionally so that the shoots do not dry out, become moldy or rot. If something like this happens, then additionally carry out the procedure of soaking, disinfecting and drying. Then pack them again and store them.

Preparing for rooting

Growing grapes from cuttings at home and properly preparing them for rooting occurs as follows:

1. Using pruning shears, make small cuts: one directly below the bud, and the other 3 cm above the bud.
2. To furrow the scion, run the end of a sharp nail from the middle to the very bottom.
3. Soak the cuttings in water for a day so that they are completely covered with it.
4. Leave them at one end in a jar with a special stimulant for another day.
5. Then lower the cutting into a jar of plain water about 3-4 cm with the end that has settled in a special solution. Do not confuse the varieties and it is good if they do not interfere with each other.
6. After 12 days, the top bud should swell and germinate.
7. The water will gradually evaporate. Top it up from time to time.

After 20 days, the roots should begin to grow. As soon as this happens, transplant the cuttings into the substrate:

1. First add drainage to the bottom and add some grape substrate.
2. Insert the cutting and fill with the remaining mixture to the top so that the green shoot is higher than it.
3. Water the seedling with water.
4. To root the seedling, place it in the sunny side.
5. Water a little so as not to overwater.
6. If desired, feed the plant.

Kilchevanie

This is a special method that ensures the formation of callus on cuttings. It promotes the rapid emergence of roots and good survival rate not only when grown in the ground on a permanent basis, but also for forcing. The essence of this technique is that the lower part of the scion is placed in conditions with high temperature, and the remaining part of the cutting is kept, on the contrary, at low temperature. This allows the buds not to bloom ahead of time, and the rhizome, on the contrary, to form.

The simplest home method of kilching is to plant the cuttings in the ground, and cover the top with a layer of peat or humus to a height of 10-15 cm. You can also cover it with glass or polyethylene to create greenhouse conditions. If the ambient temperature is about 20 degrees Celsius, then the kilching process will last within 15 days. If the temperature is above 24 degrees, germination will take about 10 days.

Planting cuttings in school

A pre-prepared plot of land where grape cuttings will be planted is called shkolka. For her, it is better to choose a small place that is very well lit by the sun. Transplanting shoots into a school is done as follows:

1. Somewhere from mid-April it is necessary to dig up the ground to a depth of about 40 cm.
2. For 1 m2 of land, add 2 buckets of sand, one bucket of humus and a small scoop of wood ash.
3. Dig everything thoroughly again and fluff up the soil well.
4. Then make small mounds into which the cuttings will later be planted, having waxed the buds in advance.

Caring for a grape school

During the entire period of growing the seedling at home, keep the soil loose and free of weeds. After each watering or rain, fluff the soil thoroughly. To feed the cuttings, it is better to use special organic fertilizers, which are applied along with watering. Closer to August, to achieve better ripening of the vines, do the chasing. When 1-2 mature, woody shoots appear in the fall, the seedling will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.

How to expand your vineyard without spending too much? The most ancient method - propagation of grapes by layering - will allow you to root the vines without separating them from the mother bush, but this way you can grow a relatively small number of rooted shoots from one mother plant.

Basic methods of grape propagation

One of the time-tested ways to propagate a crop is to cover the vines with soil. If it is still green, then the procedure is carried out at the end of June, if it is already lignified, in the spring. Sprinkle so that the top remains above the surface of the ground. In the fall, each of the sprouts is separated from its neighbors, placed in markets and stored in a special room until spring. For northern regions, this option is practically unsuitable, since roots will form at the point of shoot growth, and such roots often die from frost.

Sprinkling the vine with soil has an original modified version, in which at the end of June a bag with a special soil mixture of soil and peat is attached to the base of the shoot. By autumn, roots have formed in this place and a full-fledged grape seedling can be used for its intended purpose. However, this option also has the same drawback - young roots will be sensitive to negative temperatures.

To obtain high-quality material in significant quantities, you can use the layering method:

• horizontal – obtaining seedlings for transplanting to a new location, a groove up to 20 cm deep;
• deep - replacement of old (mother) bushes, a groove with a hole in the place where the shoot is supposed to emerge, up to 50 cm deep.

In the cold northern regions, the most widespread method of propagating grapes is by cuttings. The material is harvested in the fall and stored in a box with damp sand to protect it from drying out. In March, they begin to germinate in glass jars, and after the first roots appear, they are planted in bags with soil. May is the time to plant young seedlings in a permanent place.

Preparing cuttings for winter storage

Branch grafting is usually used to replace one variety with another. Sowing seeds does not pay off, since out of a thousand seedlings only one or two turn out to be of high quality, the rest grow worse than the original.

The most popular and effective way is considered to be propagation of grapes by winter or summer cuttings. It is based on the natural ability of a culture to fully recover from just one shoot, preserving all the properties of the mother vine. This method is used in the industrial cultivation of these plants; amateur gardeners also know how to propagate grapes. Since, grown from a cutting, it has its own rather than grafted root system, it is often called self-rooted.

If you decide to learn from your own experience how to grow grapes from cuttings, you will have to take care of preparing the material in advance, even when. When pruning unnecessary branches, pay attention to the shoots that bear fruit in the summer, the diameter of which is 7-10 mm. A shoot that is cut to a replacement knot, or the middle part of the fruit shoot, is suitable as a cutting.

The most popular and effective way is considered to be propagation of grapes by winter or summer cuttings.

How the cuttings are prepared:

• remove all shoots, leaves, tendrils, shoots and immature tops from the branch;
• each cutting will need to be cut so that there are 4 buds left on them;
• cut the cutting at an angle, moving upward from the top bud a couple of centimeters, the cut is made at an angle from the eye;
• cut the lower part of the cutting under the lower eye in a straight line;
• To improve root formation, make three vertical stripes up to the bast (3 cm long) on ​​the lower part with a needle or knife;
• Tie all prepared cuttings into bundles in accordance with the variety and label them;
• bunches of cuttings are placed in clean water for a day to increase physiological humidity, and then pickled with copper sulfate (5%) and dried;
• After these procedures, bunches of cuttings can be wrapped in film or a plastic bag and stored in a refrigerator, cellar, or basement.

Cuttings lying in storage during the winter should be inspected 1-2 times and turned over to the other side.

Video about propagating grapes by cuttings

Options for germination of cuttings

A couple of weeks before planting in the ground for germination, in early February, you need to take out the cuttings and check their freshness by pressing on the cross section with pruning shears. If a few droplets of water appear, it means that the cutting is well preserved; no drops appear - the branch is dry, moisture oozes from the branch without pressing - the cutting is rotten. Make a fresh cross-section and pay attention to its color: it should be light green, there should be no black spots.

In order for grape propagation to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that were best preserved over the winter. Soaking lasts two days with daily water changes, after which it is recommended to place the branches in a root formation stimulator for a day.

Before propagating grapes from cuttings, you need to germinate them at home in plastic glasses or bottles.

In order for grape propagation to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that were best preserved over the winter.

Option 1. Sprouting in glasses:

• prepare large plastic glasses by making three holes in the bottom with an awl;
• pour soil mixed with leaf humus into the bottom of the glasses in a 2 cm layer;
• Place a smaller cup without a bottom on top of the soil, filling the gap between the walls of the cups with soil, compact and water the soil;
• pour washed river sand into the inner glass, pour it over and remove the glass;
• in the very center of the sand, make a 4 cm indentation with a stick, insert the cutting there and pour in the sand;
• pour sand on top, cover the glass with a plastic bottle without a bottom and without a lid.

Every day or every two days you will need to water the seedlings with warm water. And when the roots are visible near the walls of the glass, and 4 leaves grow on the branch, the bottle can be removed.

Option 2. Germination in a bottle:

• make several holes in the bottom of a plastic bottle with a cut off neck;
• add a drainage layer;
• pour 7 tablespoons of soil mixture over the drainage;
• insert the cutting into the soil mixture at an angle so that the top soil or eye is at the level of the top of the bottle;
• pour steamed old sawdust on top;
• cover the cutting with a plastic cup.

The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it

Place the bottle with the stem facing away from the window. The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it. You should water from below through a tray, pour a little water into it and place a bottle with a seedling there for 15 minutes.

How grapes are propagated by green cuttings

You can also germinate green cuttings, cut at the very beginning of flowering. To do this, you will need shoots, which are obtained by pinching and breaking off branches in the spring. Immediately place the cut shoots in a bucket filled with clean water. Take out each shoot, cut it into cuttings with two buds and put them back in the water.

You can also germinate green cuttings cut at the very beginning of flowering.

For cuttings, make the lower cut obliquely under the lower node. When cutting off the top above the node, leave a stump of 2-3 cm. Ready green cuttings are planted in a box or in separate plastic cups. It is necessary to create a slight darkening for them, which is removed after the cuttings have noticeably begun to grow.

Video about propagating grapes using green cuttings

The cuttings will grow all summer, and in the fall they will need to be placed in the cellar for storage. In the spring, transplant the seedlings into the ground and grow in a bucket during the summer. Seedlings obtained from cuttings are planted in the vineyard in mid-September.

Reproduction by layering

Layerings are rooted lower shoots that are placed in a special way in the ground without being disconnected from the parent bush until the seedling matures. Depending on the age of the shoot and the nuances of laying layering grooves, the following methods are distinguished:

• dry;
• green;
• semi-green;
• horizontal;
• deep;
• Chinese;
• katavlak, etc.

The chronology of actions when propagating grapes by layering follows the following algorithm:

1. Forming a groove 15 cm wide and up to 20 cm deep in the desired direction from the mother bush. This procedure should be carried out until buds appear on the vine.
2. Fill the ditch ¾ full with a mixture of soil and humus.
3. Laying the vine along the groove and pinning it to the ground using wire, slingshots and other devices to fix the position.
4. Backfill the laid vine with soil mixture and thoroughly water it with water with the addition of manganese.
5. Covering the layering with film until the first leaves appear above the ground. This technique allows you to create an optimal microclimate.
6. Regular watering and tying young shoots to pegs made of wood or metal.
7. Pinching young shoots at the end of summer will cause them to ripen.
8. With the onset of autumn, the cuttings are dug up, divided into parts, the roots of each seedling are dipped in a clay solution and sent for storage.

Did you know that no more than two layerings are formed from one bush, and layering can be done in the middle of summer if the leaves are removed from the shoot before planting it in a trench.

How to propagate virgin grapes

The maiden (wild) species is a vine, widely used in decorating country buildings: gazebo, fence, house wall, etc. Several methods are used to reproduce it:

Fun fact: it may take two seasons for good rooting.

Regardless of the chosen method of propagating virgin grapes, care should be taken to prepare the soil in advance:

1. At the proposed planting site, dig a hole 60 cm wide and at least 50 cm deep.
2. The pit is filled 2/5 with broken bricks or large crushed stone, providing drainage.
3. The top is covered with a soil mixture of two parts earth, two parts peat and one part sand.

When planting seedlings, maintain a distance of one meter between two adjacent specimens.

How to plant a crop in open ground

First, choose the location of the future vineyard, taking into account the following recommendations:

• south or west side;
• absence of tall trees nearby;
• protection from strong winds and low temperatures in the form of a building wall.

The planting order depends on the properties of the soil in which the grapes will grow. So, for chernozem and clay they adhere to the following technology:

1. Dig a hole 80x80 cm with the same depth.
2. Fill the hole ¼ full with a mixture of soil and humus and compact it.
3. Mix 300 g of superphosphate and potassium fertilizer with 3 liters of ash, add to the soil and form another layer, twice as thin as the previous one.
4. The third layer of 5 cm is represented only by soil.
5. After all the manipulations, the hole turns out to be half filled.
6. A small mound is formed in the center, a seedling is placed vertically on it (if the length is over 25 cm, it should be placed at a slope) and the roots are evenly straightened.
7. Cover the grapes with soil to the growth level, compact the soil thoroughly and pour out 2-3 buckets of water.
8. The top layer (up to 10 cm) is loosened, watering is repeated twice every two weeks, accompanied by loosening and mulching.
9. To support the seedling, a peg is installed, to which it is tied, leaving one shoot.

If the soil is sandy, then the hole is deepened to 1 meter, forming the first layer of 20 cm of clay soil. You will also have to water more often and more abundantly - once a week, 4 buckets of water.
If the seedlings have a lignified trunk, then planting them, taking into account weather conditions, begins at the end of April. Green vegetative specimens are best planted in June. When choosing the autumn period (from October to frost), young plants should be carefully covered with peat, pine needles or sawdust.

Using cuttings to propagate grapes is the most popular method of growing new vines. For this purpose, both green and lignified chibouks are selected. If you follow the rules of preparation, care and planting in open ground in the spring, the winegrower will receive a strong, viable bush. New plants will preserve the genetic characteristics of the variety and will bring a harvest of valuable berries in the future.

Young grape seedling on the plot

Growing on the basis of lignified chibouks

Preparation of planting material

To obtain cuttings capable of growth, it is necessary to prepare them correctly. Otherwise, the cut material will dry out and die before it can be planted. The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day or early in the morning. A shoot with shoots 7 to 10 mm thick and two eyes is cut off in the fall and excess buds (except four), tendrils and foliage are removed.

The cut is made at an angle, its line passing a couple of centimeters above the bud at the top. At the bottom, make 3 cuts up to 3 cm in length. Then markings are applied so as not to confuse the varieties, and they are tied together. Separation by variety is necessary because when the blanks are in the dormant stage, different varieties negatively affect each other.

Bundles of chibouks are placed in water for 24 hours. Then the bunches are treated with copper sulfate (a five percent solution) to prevent mold from forming, and dried. The shoots that were harvested in the fall, before the active activity of the organism in the spring, are the most viable and take root well when planted.

The treated planting material is wrapped in polyethylene to prevent premature growth and placed in a cool, dark place (cellar, refrigerator). It is stored in a vertical or horizontal position, sprinkled with wet sand or sawdust. During winter, it is inspected and turned over a couple of times.

Preparing grape cuttings

Spring procedures

In spring, the grape shoots awaken. To do this, the pre-prepared material is moistened with warm water and kept for 48 hours. Then be sure to check the viability of the prepared material: remove a little bark with a sharp knife. If the wood and the bud inside the eye are painted bright green, then such a specimen is suitable for further breeding.

First, the plants are rooted in glass containers filled with 2 centimeters of water and covered with polyethylene on top. 14 days before planting in open ground, they are produced planting in small containers with several holes on the bottom or in wooden boxes (the height of the sides is 20 cm). They are filled in:

• pour 2 centimeters of soil mixture of soil and humus;
• wash the sand and cover it with a small layer of the mixture in containers;
• make a hole in the middle 4 cm deep and place the chibouk there;
• pour 4 cm of soil mixture on top and water generously with a warm, weak solution of water and potassium permanganate.

Another way to root green shoots in the spring is without first placing them in glass jars. In this case, they are planted immediately in containers with soil. The planted plants are kept on the sunny side, protected from direct rays, and fed a little with ash or potassium. Watering is moderate.

How to plant

Planting in open ground is carried out in the spring, when the rooted shoots of the grapes have overwintered (if the procedure is carried out in the fall) and the threat of frost has passed, and the soil has warmed up to 10 degrees. The area is first prepared for this: it is treated with urea and moistened. After a couple of hours, they begin planting, having previously lightly trimmed the roots of the grape stems to stimulate their growth.

Grape cuttings planted in the ground

Growing on the basis of green chibouks

This method of planting grape cuttings in the spring is suitable for varieties that are difficult to propagate using woody stems (“Festival”, “Early Purple”).

Preparation of the site and planting material

For planting, choose a well-lit and draft-free area, without proximity to groundwater or salinity. Vegetables or other garden crops should not grow nearby (at a distance closer than two meters). The soil is suitable fertile, loose and light:

• light loamy;
• sandy loam;
• black soil

In autumn or in the last ten days of August, fertilizers are applied per square meter of land:

• humus - from 15 to 20 kilograms;
• superphosphate – 100 grams;
• potassium sulfate - from 50 to 70 grams.

You can fertilize open ground for grapes in the spring. After applying fertilizing, the area is dug up. Right before planting, grooves are formed on the ground: row spacing is 30 centimeters. The area is spilled with slightly heated water.

Preparing cuttings and places for planting

For planting in spring, cuttings with three eyes are chosen. They are first kept for 24 hours in a diluted growth stimulator at a temperature of +30 to +40 degrees:

• heteroauxin (half a tablet in half a bucket of water);
• honey (a tablespoon per bucket of water).

How to plant

Planting of cuttings is carried out in autumn or spring, when the soil warms up to 30 centimeters in depth. They are planted at an angle of 45 degrees, facing north. The upper peephole is located above the soil surface. Planted plants are spaced 10 to 12 centimeters apart.

Then the grape cuttings are covered with a layer of soil and watered with warm water. When it is absorbed, the protruding plant fragments are hilled up to a height of 5 centimeters. To retain heat and moisture, future bushes are covered with polyethylene, and the edges of the film are sprinkled with soil.

When the buds bloom and shoots appear, holes are cut crosswise in the polyethylene above each stem for the further development of the plant.

Grape cuttings planted in the ground

Care

As the cuttings begin to grow and develop, they need frequent watering. The highest soil moisture (from 85 to 90 percent) is maintained until the last ten days of June. In mid-summer the level drops to 75-85 percent, and in late summer and autumn (early September) its level stops at 65 percent.

Planted grapevines require foliar fertilizers. First, fertilizing is carried out in June - the first ten days of July. To do this, prepare solutions: 200 grams of superphosphate are kept in 3 liters of water for 24 hours, stirring occasionally. For the second solution take (in grams):

• ammonium nitrate – 30;
• potassium sulfate – 100;
• boric acid – 10.

All elements are dissolved in two liters of water. Drain the superphosphate solution from the sediment, combine both mixtures and add water (up to 10 liters). The prepared preparation is sprayed on the foliage on both sides. The time of the procedure is evening or a cloudy day, this way the nutrients are better absorbed. A day later, the planted cuttings are sprayed with water.

The second feeding of grape cuttings is carried out in the third ten days of July - the first ten days of August. This time the fertilizer is prepared from 200 grams of superphosphate and 100 grams of potassium sulfate. Prepare in the same way as the first feeding. The end result is a bucket of fertilizer.

In addition to feeding, pinching and chasing (removing the top to the first true leaf) of the shoots is carried out. This affects the accelerated development of shoots. In the fall, with proper care, cuttings awakened and rooted in the spring will produce well-developed grape seedlings.

Grape cuttings stored in the fall can already be planted indoors or in a greenhouse. This improves and accelerates development. In a year or two, you can get your first harvest.

Preparing grape cuttings for planting

At the end of January or the first ten days of February, remove the branches from the shelter and wash them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. For two days, they are kept in fresh water at room temperature, with the addition of a spoonful of honey for better rooting.

Then, the lower sections are refreshed with sharp pruning shears, 5-7 cm from the bud. The top is cut obliquely, 2-3 cm above the upper eye. It is recommended to make grooves from below with a sharp knife so that more roots are formed.

Container for cuttings

The optimal container is to cut a 1.5 liter PET bottle in half (crosswise). Line the bottom with foam rubber, pour a little melt water, so that 2-3 cm of twigs are submerged. The liquid will deteriorate less when adding a crushed tablet of activated carbon or a piece of wood.

The container should be wrapped in a plastic bag and placed on a well-lit windowsill. After three weeks, the bottom of the vine will be covered with a gray-white coating with dotted tubercles. You should not allow the roots to penetrate the foam rubber; they will break off. As soon as they reach 0.5 cm, the seedlings must be transplanted into the ground.

Substrate for cuttings

To prepare the substrate you will need: forest soil, well-rotted humus, peat and coarse sand, all in equal proportions. We fill the lower part of the cut PET bottle with the mixture, the bottom of which is equipped with drainage, it can be: broken brick, gravel, pieces of foam plastic, etc. Small holes must be pierced in the walls for air circulation.

Watering cuttings

In the future, it is important to prevent drying out. Grape cuttings don't like this. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically water it with water heated to +20 C. In May days, the strengthened reproductive material is transplanted to a permanent place. This should be done in cloudy weather or in the evening.

I wish everyone a good harvest and delicious grape wine made from our own grapes.

If you have something to add, please be sure to leave a comment.

If you only need a few bushes of the selected variety, you can easily get by with one of the oldest methods of propagating grapes - layering. The essence of the method is to dig the vines in with soil, which allows them to take root and form a new bush. However, you can’t grow much this way, but chibuki allow you to grow an entire vineyard from just one bush, preserving all the properties of the mother bush. What can I say if this method is used for industrial purposes.

You need to take care of planting material in the fall, when. You need to pay attention to shoots that bear fruit in the summer and reach a diameter of at least 7 mm. Each cutting must be cut so that at least 4 buds remain on it. Stepping back a few centimeters from the upper eye, you should make a cut at an angle with an inclination away from the bud. Under the lower eye, you should cut in a straight line.

To stimulate the formation of roots, it is recommended to use a knife or needle to make three vertical strips no more than three centimeters long, being careful not to catch the phloem. Some winegrowers place the prepared planting material near the bush and sprinkle it with soil until spring, while some first moisten it with water, pickle it with a solution and, after drying it in a plastic bag, send it to “winter” in the refrigerator or basement. During the winter, it doesn’t hurt to inspect them several times and turn them over to the other side.

At the beginning of February, the cuttings are taken out of the shelter and checked. You should immediately discard the branches from which moisture is oozing - this means that they are rotten. The remaining cuttings are checked with pruning shears - squeeze the cross section between the blades; if a few droplets of water emerge from it, this means that the cutting has successfully survived the winter.

When cut transversely, the core of the cutting should be light green, without any inclusions of black.

Future grape bushes selected in this way should be soaked in warm water for two days, renewing the water every day, and for another day in a growth or root formation stimulator.

After this, there are two options for the development of events - either you immediately plant the cuttings, or you germinate them, forming a plant completely ready for planting.

Planting grape stems in the spring under a crowbar or shovel does not require any germination efforts. After you have soaked the cuttings, use a crowbar or stake to make a hole up to 60 cm deep at the planting site. The hole must be widened to a diameter of 10 cm so that the cutting can fit freely in it. We insert it into the hole with the upper eye towards the row and fill the hole with earth. It is important that the top peephole is no deeper than 5 cm below the soil surface. We compact the soil and water it.

If the land has been prepared in advance, you can plant chibouks under a shovel. To do this, dig a hole about half a meter deep, into which we place the cutting at an angle or straight. We dig it in halfway and pour 1-2 buckets of heated water into the hole, after it has been absorbed, we fill the hole completely, so that the top peephole is just below the soil level. It is important in the future to water not the cuttings themselves, but the soil around them no closer than 20 cm.

Sprouting in glasses or bottles requires more effort, but the results will be better. To do this, you will need a large plastic glass or a bottle cut in half. We make several holes in the bottom, add earth to the bottom, then put a small glass without a bottom inside, into which we pour washed river sand. The gap between the walls of the glasses should be covered with earth and compacted.

In the center of the sand zone, make a small depression into which to insert the cutting and water generously. You need to water frequently, every day, and only with warm water. Gradually, the chubuk will develop roots, and the eyes will produce leaves. When there are at least four leaves, the seedling is ready for planting. Before planting grape cuttings in the soil in the spring, it should be dug up in advance and fertilized with rotted manure and leaves.