Roses can be planted in spring, summer and autumn. However, planting in any of these periods has its own characteristics. This must be taken into account. Now we will talk about the rules of autumn planting.
Planting roses in autumn
In autumn, roses are planted from mid-September to mid-October. If you plant a little earlier, the bush will take root and the above-ground part will begin to actively grow, but the root system will noticeably lag behind in growth. This can even lead to the death of the plant in winter.
Where is the best place to plant
A place in the sun is ideal; a semi-shaded place (a place where the sun shines for several hours a day) is also suitable. Roses planted in the shade do not bloom well and will suffer endlessly.
After planting, the plants need to be watered.
Do not plant in low areas where water accumulates in the spring. The plants will certainly survive the summer, but will most likely die out in the winter. If there is simply no other place, then make a high bed.
Preparing seedlings for planting
Carefully examine the roots; if they are long, it is better to shorten them. But even short roots still need to be trimmed slightly. Just refresh the cut, then callus will form faster. The cut must be white; if it is brown, it means the roots have begun to die. You need to trim until the cut turns white.
The root collar of purchased seedlings is often wrapped in electrical tape - it must be removed.
Planting pits
Planting holes are prepared based on the size of the roots. If the soil is not particularly fertile, then pour a nutrient mixture consisting of sand, peat and turf soil in equal proportions into the hole. After this, there should be enough space left in the planting hole to accommodate the root system. The roots should be positioned freely and under no circumstances curl upward.
At what depth to plant? The seedlings must be planted so that the root collar (grafting site) is in the ground at a depth of about 5 cm. With such planting, the cultivated variety will put out its additional roots, and the rosehip shoots will most likely not break through the layer of soil. You will then have fewer problems with wild growth.
Landing
Place the seedling in the hole, straighten the roots and carefully cover it with soil mixture. Form a watering hole and water well. It is necessary to water even if the soil is damp. After watering, the soil in the planting hole will be compacted and there will be no air voids around the roots, and this is very important.
When the water is absorbed, add soil if it has settled too much and cover the hole with some mulch.
Trimming the seedling after planting
This is an important point! When planting in spring, the seedlings are pruned, leaving only a few buds. When planting roses in the fall, the seedlings should never be pruned.
After pruning, the plants begin to produce young shoots, and there is no time for them to ripen. With the onset of cold weather they will certainly die. Therefore, when planting in autumn, it is better to postpone pruning until spring.
The shoots of young seedlings are elastic, flexible, and when covered for the winter they are simply bent to the ground.
At what distance to plant roses?
Leave between the bushes:
- Tea - hybrid and floribunda roses 50 - 60 cm.
- English roses 70 - 80 cm.
- Climbing roses and large scrubs 1 - 1.5 m.
Autumn rose care
Autumn care for roses is preparing plants for the upcoming winter. Only healthy bushes with well-ripened shoots will successfully survive the winter. In order for the shoots to ripen well, it is necessary to exclude all factors that provoke the growth of young shoots. This is first of all: nitrogen fertilizing in the second half of summer and even more so in autumn, abundant watering, pruning shoots in early autumn.
Autumn pruning
Top dressing
There is no need to feed roses in the fall. Apply the last feeding in August. It should only be phosphorus-potassium (without nitrogen). Phosphorus fertilizers promote root growth, and potassium fertilizers enhance the winter hardiness of plants, this is exactly what we need. In the store you can pick up special autumn fertilizers for roses, or you can use old, proven ones:
- superphosphate
- potassium salt
- potassium chloride.
How to water
If autumn is rainy, you don’t have to water at all. In dry weather it is necessary to water, but moderately. In winter, plants should receive moisture recharge, especially if the shelter is “dry” in winter.
Transplanting bushes in autumn
The rose plant is quite unpretentious and easily tolerates transplantation, but you need to know the basic rules.
When is the best time to replant? Roses should be planted and replanted in the fall in September - October. Choose a cloudy day for this or start working in the late afternoon when it gets cooler.
The most important thing in replanting roses is to carefully dig up the bush, being careful not to damage the roots. Although, if the plant is already quite mature, this will be difficult to do. But even if some of the roots are damaged, this is not fatal for the rose; it will restore them quickly enough.
Start digging out the bush from all sides, gradually going deeper. Sooner or later you will reach a taproot that goes deep into the ground. You won’t be able to dig it up anyway; you’ll just have to chop it off.
After this, try to get the bush out of the hole without collapsing the earthen ball. To transport the plant to a new place, you can use a large bag or piece of film or tarpaulin, which is prepared in advance.
Replanting the rose to a new location
We prepare a planting hole slightly larger than the size of the root system with a lump of earth. If the soil is poor, then dig a hole a little larger and add fertile soil there.
Transplanting roses.
When replanting, do not forget to deepen the root collar into the soil by 5 - 6 cm. If it was already deepened during the initial planting or you are replanting your own rooted rose, then plant the plants at the same level at which they grew.
The transplanted rose must be thoroughly watered and the hole mulched. Tie tall bushes to a driven stake, otherwise the wind may tilt the plant and then it will be difficult to level it. Postpone pruning until spring.
Autumn pruning of roses
For inexperienced gardeners, pruning roses is a real headache. They will approach the bush with pruning shears and spend a long, long time trying on what to cut.
In fact, this procedure is quite simple. You just need to understand what, why and when you need to trim. Not to remember, but to understand. Today we will talk about autumn pruning of roses.
So: roses generally don’t need autumn pruning. Roses are pruned in the fall only to make it easier to cover them for the winter. If it is possible to bend the bush to the ground, bend it and cover it. The main pruning will be done in the spring.
The only thing that must be done is to remove all young, immature shoots. They cannot be left. Not only do they have no chance of surviving the winter, but they can also become a source of infection for the entire bush.
The situation is similar with leaves; they are also recommended to be cut, collected and burned. Of course, removing leaves from a hybrid tea rose is not a difficult task, but from a large climbing rose bush... I have never cut leaves from climbing roses, I was always a pity for time and never had any problems. What you do is up to you.
The basic rule of autumn pruning: You can start pruning roses in the fall when at least the night temperature is below 0º.
Make the cuts oblique (so that water drains from them faster) and cover them with garden varnish.
Autumn pruning of hybrid tea and floribunda roses
This is what a pruned bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before covering it for the winter.
It is unlikely that it will be possible to bend adult bushes of such roses to the ground, so they are usually pruned in the fall. This is done very simply, all shoots are shortened to 25 - 30 cm. According to the rules, the cut should be made obliquely and 0.5 cm above the bud located on the outside of the shoot (the young shoot growing from this bud should grow not inside the bush, but to the side ).
In the fall, you can forget about this rule and cut as you please. Over the winter, the tops of the shoots will freeze and dry out, and they will still have to be cut off again in the spring. Then everything must be done according to the rules.
In the photo you see what a pruned bush of hybrid tea roses should look like before covering it for the winter.
Pruning ground cover roses
These roses are the easiest to bend to the ground, so they do not need any pruning. Remove only faded flowers.
Park roses
This group of roses also does not require autumn pruning. Remove only old flowers and fruits.
Pruning climbing roses
Climbing roses bloom on the previous year's growth and therefore should not be heavily pruned. The bushes grow very large, with powerful shoots. For winter shelter, they must first be bent to the ground, and this is almost always very difficult to do. To make this task easier, in the fall you can cut out old, broken shoots and shoots growing “in the wrong direction” and interfering with the shelter.
Scrubs, English and standard roses
For all these roses in the fall, only immature shoots, dry branches and old flowers are removed.
Cuttings of roses in autumn
An interesting video about autumn cuttings of roses:
Most rose lovers start cuttings in early summer. Some achieve good results, others not so much. Very often, failures are associated with increased summer temperatures. For rooting, 24 - 27 degrees Celsius is most suitable. And if it’s +35 outside, then what’s under the can or under the film in the greenhouse? It is quite difficult for a young plant to take root and survive in such conditions.
I want to talk about a method of cutting roses in the fall, which is devoid of this and many other disadvantages. Of course, the method is not new, but not everyone knows about it. Some people know, but do not use it, not particularly believing in its effectiveness, and the method is not only simple, but also effective.
Preparing the site for cuttings
If you have a greenhouse buried in the ground, then it is ideal for autumn cuttings of roses. You can dig a trench as deep as a shovel bayonet or a little deeper. If clay appears at the bottom of this trench, then dig a little more and fill it with earth mixed with sand.
One important condition: this trench or greenhouse should not be filled with water either in winter or in spring.
Preparation of cuttings. When you prune roses in the fall, cut cuttings about 20 cm long with 4 - 5 buds. The leaves are not needed, remove them immediately.
Planting cuttings
Stick the cuttings into the ground to a depth of 5 - 6 cm, so that two buds are in the ground and the rest are on the surface. Fill the greenhouse tightly with fallen leaves and cover with lutrasil. There is no need to do anything else until spring.
In the spring, make a film cover over the greenhouse, water it, ventilate it, and when you realize that the cuttings have taken root, gradually remove the film.
The second part of the video, what happened to the cuttings in the spring:
As you can see, autumn cuttings of roses are simpler than summer ones; endless spraying is not required, and in general, care is much easier.
Rose is one of the most exquisite and beautiful plants that can be grown in your garden. Planting roses must be carried out according to all the rules, and caring for them requires care and careful work, as well as some basic knowledge when choosing a seedling and a place for growing.
Main varieties of roses for growing
Plant care can vary greatly depending on the variety. The main varieties of roses with their own characteristics are described below.
Park roses
Relatively unpretentious plants, undemanding to soil and care, tolerate both heat and frost well. They bloom earlier than other roses, in late spring, flowering lasts about a month. There are several main groups: rose hips, garden roses and modern hybrids, which differ in both appearance and flowering time.
climbing roses
Roses with long shoots growing around a fulcrum. Often used to decorate fences, gazebos, columns, and decorate building facades. They are divided into three groups according to height: semi-climbing up to three meters, climbing up to five meters, climbing up to 15 meters. When caring, it is important to prune faded shoots, as well as covering them for the winter.
Ground cover roses
They stand out for their diversity and abundant flowering. Ground cover roses can bloom until autumn, making them an excellent choice for a country plot or flower garden. One of the features is that it requires planting on a slope and on a hill to avoid flooding of flowers in the spring. This type of rose is unpretentious and does not require special care measures, except for abundant watering after planting.
Tea and hybrid tea roses
Flowers with a magnificent scent and varied bud colors. Among the advantages of the variety, one can highlight repeated flowering and the outstanding qualities of the flower itself: powerful stem and bulb, varied color, smell; one of the disadvantages is low resistance to heat, frost, and disease. We do not recommend starting your acquaintance with growing roses with these flowers; they require constant care from an experienced gardener.
If your previous attempts to grow these magnificent flowers in your garden have ended in failure, or this is your first time deciding to grow these majestic flowers, our article, based on advice from professionals, will help you achieve success and avoid annoying mistakes.
Having previously familiarized yourself with the huge variety of species and varieties of roses, you can go to a nursery or a specialized store to buy seedlings. You can, of course, order them from online stores, but then you will not be able to check the condition of the plant’s root system. And this is of great importance when landing.
Video about planting roses
Seedlings in stores are sold in containers or with an open root system. The first option is better to choose if you intend to plant flowers in the summer. If planting is planned for the spring or autumn months, you can safely buy seedlings with bare roots without leaves - they are presented in a wider range and are sold cheaper.
Buying roses in a container, see if the earthen ball is densely filled with roots, if there are many shoots on the bush, and what the foliage looks like. High-quality seedlings have a developed, well-branched root system, two or three strong woody shoots and green leaves without spots. And of course, no insects should be noticeable on the seedling.
In seedlings with exposed root system Also, the roots should be well branched, light-colored when cut, not dry or damaged. Buy seedlings with strong, glossy green shoots and shiny thorns. It is desirable that the seedling has at least three good shoots, smooth and fresh to the touch. If the tips of the shoots seem a bit dry, this is normal in spring.
Seedlings in stores are sold in containers or with an open root system
Seedlings are also found in stores in thin cardboard packages with roots sprinkled with wet peat. In this case, the plants are planted in the ground without removing them from the packaging. However, be careful: in January-February, seedlings from nurseries in Holland and Poland, left over from the fall, are sold in imported paper containers. Such plants are already weakened by long-term storage, and at home it will be even more difficult to preserve them until spring. Try burying the roots in a box and placing the roses on the balcony at above-zero temperatures or in the basement.
In flower shops, roses for planting are sold in a special container or without it, with an open root system. For planting in summer, it is better to choose the first option; it will take root faster. In spring or autumn, ordinary seedlings with bare roots are also suitable: they are cheaper, and the choice of varieties among such roses is much larger.
When purchasing roses in a container, it is important to pay attention to the following details:
- how many roots does a seedling have in a coma of earth;
- are there any shoots, how many are there;
- appearance of foliage.
A good seedling will have an extensive, dense root system, several firm shoots, and leaves that are an even green color without blemishes.
Bare-rooted seedlings must meet the same requirements. Look carefully at the roots - the cut area should be light and the roots themselves undamaged.
In stores you can find roses in cardboard packaging, ready for planting without removal. Such plants most often come from Holland and Eastern Europe, weakened by long storage and transportation. If you decide to leave the rose in a box at home until spring, bury the roots in the box and take the plant to the balcony or any sunny place with a positive temperature.
When to plant: autumn or spring
Without a doubt, autumn is the most optimal time for planting - seedlings planted in October have time to take root well before frost and immediately begin to actively grow in the spring. In addition, in the fall, nurseries offer a wide selection of grafted seedlings of various varieties, while in the spring, domestic and imported rose seedlings are significantly weakened after winter storage.
Autumn is the best time to plant roses
But keep in mind that self-rooted seedlings (obtained by cuttings), which are sold only in containers, cannot be planted in the fall! Their root system is not sufficiently developed, and under unfavorable conditions, the flowers will die in the first winter. Such seedlings can be transplanted from a container into the ground from May to mid-summer.
Preparing for landing
The best time for planting will be mid-autumn: the seedlings have time to take root and begin to grow in the spring. In autumn there is also more choice, while in spring only plants weakened after storage remain on sale.It is not recommended to use container seedlings in the spring - they are propagated by cuttings; a weak root system will not withstand spring temperature changes and will not survive the winter. Plants in containers are planted from May to July so that they have time to take root.Rose is a capricious plant; when planting, consider the following factors:
The rose blooms best in a little shade far from large trees and places where water accumulates. The soil should be neutral: loamy soil should be fertilized with manure and sand, and mineral fertilizers should be added to sandy soil. Best growing conditions
Unlike roses, you can’t plant them wherever you have to. As true queens of the flower garden, they should occupy the best place! When choosing where to plant seedlings, take into account the following important points:
- flowers grow poorly in the shade;
- “in the heat” their color fades and flowering ends faster;
- drafts and dampness are contraindicated for roses, and dry hot air can quickly spread spider mites on plants;
- It is not recommended to grow flowers under the crowns of trees, since the air remains damp there for a long time after rain, and raindrops fall from above at the slightest breath of wind.
Cold and damp loamy soil should be improved with rotted manure and sand.
It is better to plant roses in a place where at lunchtime a light openwork shadow will fall on the flowers, and water will not stagnate in the ground. Groundwater is allowed to lie no higher than one meter from the surface.
As for the soil, it should be neutral (add high-moor peat to alkaline soil, and lime to acidic soil), deeply drained and fertile. Cold and damp loamy soil should be improved with rotted manure and sand. In addition to manure, it is recommended to add stone flour and mineral fertilizers to quickly drying sandy loam soil.
Brief instructions for planting roses
First of all, for each seedling you will need to dig a hole of such a size that the root system of the roses fits freely in it, and the roots do not break or bend. It is recommended to maintain a distance of 80 cm between pits, and one to two meters between rows.
When planting roses in the spring, the soil removed from the hole should be mixed with compost - it will be useful to the plants within a few weeks. There is no need to apply organic fertilizers during autumn planting.
You can prepare planting holes in advance to allow the soil to compact, but it is also possible to plant roses in freshly dug holes, and then dig them up a little and “pull them up” to the required level.
Video about planting roses from cuttings
If for some reason you cannot immediately plant the purchased seedlings with bare roots, their roots can be dipped in water for several days or wrapped in damp burlap and wrapped in plastic wrap. To preserve it for a longer period, the roots wrapped in film should be buried in a shallow groove, compacting the soil tightly.
Nuances of care
Roses, regardless of variety, require thorough watering two to three times a week in the morning or evening. Watering is carried out at the root, until the soil is completely saturated with moisture. At the beginning of autumn, in the absence of drought, roses stop watering to avoid the appearance of young shoots before the onset of winter.
When watering during the day, water that gets on the leaves can cause burns. The best time for watering is considered to be early morning or late evening, when the soil has dried a few centimeters deep.
It is important to carry out annual formative and rejuvenating pruning, removing stems three years old and above, clearing the plant of small shoots and non-flowering branches. Before the onset of winter, the bushes are hilled up and the branches are wrapped in paper.
It is impossible to imagine a summer cottage without roses. At least one bush of luxurious beauty is sure to decorate the flower garden. Growing a fragrant flower is not very difficult if the summer resident initially knows how to plant a rose and what place is suitable for it.
When to plant roses in open ground - in spring or autumn
Rose seedlings can be successfully planted throughout the warm season, but traditionally spring or autumn is chosen; the maximum number of seedlings goes on sale.
Timing and benefits of spring planting
Most retail chains begin selling seedlings at the end of February, from which time gardeners are preparing to replenish their collection. But even in the south this is not the right time to land. Purchased plants are stored until warm days in a cool place, waiting for suitable conditions:
the soil was completely freed from snow and thawed; the air temperature does not drop below +10°C for several days in a row; The weather forecast does not predict the return of frost.
Additional Information! Rose seedlings are planted when dandelions bloom.
The advantages of spring planting are that over the summer the seedlings will form a strong root system that can easily withstand frosty winters, plus the young shoots will have time to fully ripen, and the wood will not be damaged by the cold.
Gardeners who choose spring give another argument - easier maintenance, no need to rack their brains over the advisability of watering.
Timing and benefits of autumn planting
The advantage of planting roses in the fall is more predictable weather, well-warmed soil, and cool nights that promote rapid establishment of seedlings. Next year the bushes will fully bloom.
Preparing for landing
The generally accepted rule is that the last bush is planted no later than three weeks before the onset of the final cold weather. Another important point is that the night temperature should not be lower than +10°, the maximum daytime temperature should not be +15°C. The flowering time of the planted varieties is also taken into account - the earlier the buds open, the sooner the rose needs to be planted. The optimal dates are considered to be from the second ten days of September to mid-October; in the southern regions the dates are shifted, planting there can be carried out until the first days of November.
Note! Floribunda roses are best planted in spring. Hybrid tea varieties are suitable for late planting - mid-May.
Rules for planting roses in autumn with open and closed root systems
When planting roses, they adhere to rules that guarantee normal rooting, wintering and further development of seedlings.
Selection of planting material
The most accurate assessment of the quality of a seedling is the condition of the root system. Fresh, elastic roots, uniform color, without rot or wet areas are the main criteria. The presence of at least three main shoots, an even green color with gloss, indicates the good condition of the seedling with an open root system (ROS).
A closed root system (CRS) means that the seedling is sold in a container. In this case, pay attention to how tightly the soil adheres to the walls of the container. A moderately moist substrate, no gaps, no unpleasant odor, and leafy, elastic shoots characterize a quality product.
Planting a rose
Choosing a location on the site
Roses are selected in well-lit places, protected from winds, especially northern ones. The south side of the rose garden should not be blocked by buildings or high hedges, trees, or shrubs.
It is desirable that the place be elevated for the rapid outflow of melt and rainwater and the removal of roots from the aquifer.
Soil requirements: fertility, good aeration, low acidity. Therefore, the location is selected taking into account what kind of soil roses like in order to reduce the amount of additives added to it.
Technologically, planting bushes with open and closed root systems has differences, which will be discussed below.
It is necessary to use fertile soils
Preparing for landing
Before planting a seedling, a number of preparatory work is carried out.
Preparing the beds
The beds are prepared for spring planting in the pre-winter days, when the soil is still quite warm. In autumn - about a month before the start of planting work, in August.
Preparation of nutrient substrate
The soil from the holes is taken as the basis for the nutrient soil mixture. Components are added to it that improve its mechanical composition and increase fertility. Then the soil mixture is covered with film for better preservation before planting.
Ennobling additives:
- for loams - 3 parts sand, one part each compost and turf;
- for clay - 6 parts of coarse sand, leaf or turf soil - 1 part, compost, humus - one part each;
- for sandstones - two parts each of turf soil and loam, compost (humus) - 1 part.
If necessary, alkaline or acidifying additives are added to the soil mixture to bring the pH to a level of 5.5-6.5.
You can use purchased specialized soil for roses to fill the planting holes.
Slightly alkaline soils
Preparation of planting material
The process is carried out just before planting. They start with inspecting the shoots and pruning them - removing all dried and damaged ones, making a cut above the first bud. Next, healthy shoots are shortened depending on the time of planting, the condition of the seedlings, and the variety.
When planting in autumn, the strongest bushes are left with 5 buds per shoot, those of average strength and quality need 3 buds, and the weak ones are shortened to 3-5 mm from the base.
Spring planting of roses requires rationing the number of buds:
- floribunda roses are left with 3-4 buds;
- hybrid tea group and low-growing polyanthus - 2-3 pieces each;
- the length of the shoots of climbing roses of the Rambler group is left 35 cm;
- tall varieties are shortened by 10-15 cm;
- park and miniature plants do not require pruning.
For OKS seedlings, the roots are re-inspected, the bruised ones are trimmed, healthy ones are pinched, and they are immersed in a root formation stimulator for 3-4 hours. Immediately before placing it in the hole, dip it in a mixture of mullein and clay (1:3).
Important! If sections of purchased seedlings are covered in paraffin, remove it before planting. The paraffin “cap” makes breathing difficult, which increases the rooting time.
How to plant roses in open ground correctly
The description of the process of planting roses includes the following steps:
- The planting hole is prepared two weeks in advance so that the soil has time to shrink. Dimensions depend on the variety: park - 90x90 cm, depth 70 cm; for the rest, 50x50x70 cm is enough, provided that the roots are placed freely.
- Lay 5 cm of drainage material on the bottom - pebbles, broken bricks
- Before placing the seedling in the hole, make a mound at the bottom along which the roots will be directed.
- The seedling is immersed in a hole, the roots are straightened, and the prepared soil mixture with the addition of superphosphate is gradually added (two handfuls of dry fertilizer are needed for each hole).
- After planting, the bush is shed generously with water. If the soil has settled significantly, add the required amount of soil.
- The tree trunk circle is mulched with dry peat, compost or hay. The organic layer will protect the root system from sudden temperature fluctuations and retain moisture.
The optimal scheme for group planting of bush roses: there is a gap of at least 40 cm between polyanthus, hybrid tea varieties are spaced at a distance of 60 cm, and park roses are planted at a distance of at least a meter from each other.
How to properly deepen the grafting site
An important point when planting grafted roses is to deepen the grafting site. Experienced gardeners recommend deepening:
- for hybrid teas - by 3-5 cm;
- park ones - by 5 cm;
- floribunda - 3-8 cm;
- climbing - 8-10 cm.
The root collar of self-rooted roses is buried 3-5 cm.
Additional Information! Retail chains and most nurseries sell seedlings where varietal cuttings are grafted onto a specially selected rootstock.
Features of planting roses with a closed root system
The three most common types of root system packaging are:
- Cylinders made of transparent plastic without a bottom. Healthy roses are planted without destroying the earthen ball. If the roots are in doubt, shake off the substrate, remove the dry ones, and straighten the tangled ones.
- Pots with peat substrate. Be sure to remove all transport soil. At first glance, this contradicts scientific canons, but from a practical point of view - the roots tightly entwine the substrate, forming a “felt cushion”. For further cultivation, the seedling is removed from the pot and placed in water along with the lump. When the peat is completely saturated with water, cut off the outer part of the substrate with a sharp knife. Then the roots are washed and straightened.
- Mesh packaging. In most cases, the manufacturer recommends planting without freeing the roots from the mesh. However, gardeners, faced with the slow development of such roses, recommend cutting the mesh and only then planting it.
Roses with a closed root system
The place for planting roses in containers or packaging and planting holes are prepared according to general rules, filled with prepared soil mixture, compacted, and a hole is prepared that is the size of an earthen coma. The depth is made such that another 3-5 cm of soil can be added on top.
Planting a potted rose in the ground
Rose lovers often root cuttings of gifted bouquets of roses at home, using various methods - potatoes, sand, light sphagnum-based substrates, etc. How to properly plant a rose grown in this way - rooted cuttings are planted in open ground using the transshipment method. Since rooting took place under conditions close to ideal, any time is suitable for planting. The seat is prepared using general technology.
Important! In the first two weeks, seedlings are shaded from the hot sun.
Sometimes rose seeds are used to replenish the collection. Seedlings are grown in pots for up to 2 years, then planted.
Features of planting roses in different regions
The climatic conditions of the area influence the timing of planting and the choice of suitable varieties. Changes are made less frequently to the standard technology of planting seedlings.
In the central zone and Moscow region, preference is given to spring planting dates due to unstable autumn weather. There are two ways to practice:
Cold start - bushes with an open root system are planted in cold, just thawed soil. It is important that the seedlings are still in a dormant state.
Roses bloom
Seedlings with a closed root system are planted after waiting for stable heat. Young plants successfully take root throughout the season; the deadline for planting is mid-September.
The special climate of the Urals forces summer residents to navigate by temperature. In the spring, roses are planted when the soil warms up to 8°; in the fall, wait until the daytime air temperature is 4-7°.
In Siberia, all planting work, regardless of the variety of roses, is carried out from May 15 to June 15. An important factor is that the air must warm up to +10° C.
For the successful development and flowering of roses, it is very important to plant them correctly. If everything is done on time, in full compliance with agrotechnical recommendations, luxurious flowers will decorate the garden in a short time.
Rose is the most beautiful creation of all flowers. It is not for nothing that she is called the queen of the garden, because she is endowed with a bright and catchy beauty that leaves an indelible mark on the soul. But before placing it in their garden, gardeners wonder whether it is possible to plant roses in the country in the fall, how to carry out the procedure correctly, what features and secrets there are. All the answers to these questions are below!
Many gardeners, especially beginners, wonder whether it is possible to plant roses in the fall. The answer is clear: autumn is the ideal time to plant roses. Temperature, humidity, and the condition of the soil substrate are suitable for this event. If you plant a young seedling in the last warm months, then in the spring it will produce its first buds.
As for when it is better to plant roses in the fall, specifically at what time, most often the planting of seedlings begins in September and ends at the end of October. It all depends on where you live and the climate.
Attention! Planting roses in the fall should be completed 20-30 days before the first frost. At this time, the young seedling will have time to take root well, grow additional roots and prepare for the winter.
But you should not start planting work at the end of August, since the early period of rooting of seedlings will cause the buds to begin to develop. This process can negatively affect the seedling when the first frosts arrive, which will weaken the young plant and may even cause death.
The ideal temperature for rooting is +10..+15 C, while the night temperature should not drop below +5..+100 C. It is during this period that the root system actively grows, and the buds remain dormant.
Advantages and disadvantages of planting in autumn
It is quite difficult to say when it is better to plant roses - in spring or autumn, and opinions vary. Some people believe that seedlings should be planted only in the fall so that the plant can immediately begin to grow. Others are sure that the best time is autumn.
There are several advantages of planting roses in autumn:
- If you plant roses in the fall, then in the spring they grow better and more actively than those that were buried in the ground at the beginning of spring.
- Unlike the spring months, September and October are characterized by high humidity. This weather has a positive effect on young seedlings; they develop roots faster and become established in the soil.
- In autumn, there is more precipitation in the form of rain than in April or even more so in May. During this period, the soil is moistened naturally, so there is no need to control soil moisture.
- After the summer heat, the soil substrate does not have time to cool down; the temperature of the earth remains stable for a long time, which allows plants to grow a good root system.
- There is no danger of frost, unlike the return of sub-zero temperatures in spring.
- A large number of seedlings of varying quality, since the spring sale often consists of old seedlings from last year that were left over from the fall and were not sold on time.
But with all the advantages of autumn planting, there are also several disadvantages. :
- Early boarding. If you plant too early, the seedling will grow and green leaves will begin to appear. This activation process will negatively affect the condition of the plant in winter.
- Late boarding. Planting at the end of October-November threatens a sharp change in weather and the onset of frosty days. The plant does not have time to gain a good foothold in the ground, freezes and dies.
- Shelter. Poor quality insulation of a young seedling can be a problem for its further existence. If the cover is not properly covered, fungal diseases can form. All this depletes the plant’s strength, contributing to its death.
Advice! Before autumn planting, you should carefully monitor the weather forecast and do everything on time.
Video: proper planting of roses in autumn and further care
How to plant roses in the fall - features and step-by-step instructions
There are certain nuances of the procedure that you need to know in order to properly plant roses in the fall. Let's find out!
What should a seedling be like and how to prepare it for planting in open ground
It is recommended to select rose seedlings for planting in the fall and buy them in specialized stores or from reputable suppliers. If planting is planned in the near future, then it is best to purchase specimens with an open root system. In this state it is easy to examine it and see all the shortcomings and disadvantages of the plant.
Video: planting roses in the fall with an open root system.
The roots should be evenly developed in all directions, brown in color, without strange spots that look like rot. Seedlings must have at least 3 well-developed main shoots. They should be a rich green color with a glossy tint, as well as with sharp spikes, without unusual cracks or excess growths.
If the seedling is in a container with soil (that is, with a closed root system), then you need to check how the soil lags behind the flowerpot to determine how long it has been there. If there are leaves on the plant, they should be rich green in color, healthy in appearance and without any spots on the leaf surface.
A seedling with an open root system should be properly prepared before planting. If the seedling is already sitting in a pot, it is not touched until the procedure of transshipment to a new place of residence.
Video: planting roses in autumn with a closed root system
To prepare bare-root roses, do the following:
Landing location
Which place should you choose? Roses take root well in sunny areas protected from northern winds and drafts.
By the way! If a shrub is planted in the shade, it will reach for the light, bloom little and get sick a lot. On the sunny south side the plant will quickly lose moisture and bloom in a short time. Therefore, you should choose a place where there is a lot of sunlight, but there will be light shade for a few hours in the afternoon.
It is not a good idea to place a rose garden near tall and dense trees, which will certainly create a strong shadow.
You should not plant the plant in lowlands where water often stagnates. The presence of high groundwater is also not desirable. Rose does not like excessive moisture. Under such conditions, the root system of the plant begins to rot and the plant dies.
What kind of soil is needed?what to fertilize before planting
Of course, it is preferable to plant roses in fertile soil. The soil should be loose, airy and well permeable to moisture.
Important! The selected area is prepared not just before the procedure of planting seedlings, but at least a few weeks before this moment.
The soil is carefully dug up to 40 centimeters and, if necessary, dolomite flour or lime is added. This is required to reduce acidity, since roses grow well only in slightly acidic soil. If the soil is heavy, it is recommended to add peat, sand and compost when digging.
Preparation of holes (their sizes) and optimal distance between seedlings
The next stage of planting is preparing the planting hole. The recess is dug to a depth of 40-50 cm. It should be at least 50, and preferably 70 cm wide.
As for the distance between seedlings, it varies depending on the variety of roses. Thus, polyanthus, hybrid tea and floribunda roses are planted at a distance of 30-60 centimeters from each other, park roses - 75-90 cm, climbing and standard roses - up to 100 cm.
Planting methods
Important! If your soil is clayey, then you need to add a drainage layer. Broken brick, pebbles or expanded clay are suitable for this. And fertile soil is poured on top.
According to first method (dry), before the planting procedure, a small mound is thrown onto the bottom of a hole prepared in advance. A seedling with roots spread out in different directions is placed on top of it and covered with fertile soil. Next you need to compact it and water it generously.
Note!
It is very important to properly deepen the seedling, namely, so that its grafting site (root collar) is underground at a depth of 5 cm.
Exception. For standard roses - 10 cm.
In addition to this dry method, there is wet planting.
Second way requires the preparation of a sodium humate solution, which is completely poured into the well. Afterwards, the seedling is installed, and all other procedures are performed in exactly the same way as with the dry planting method.
It is up to the gardener to decide which planting method to use. Both methods have their own advantages.
Video: how to plant roses correctly in the fall.
Care after landing
Once you plant your roses, caring for the young plants is very simple. Usually, watering are no longer required, since the weather is wet at this time in autumn. However, if the autumn is very dry, then watering is necessary.
IN feeding plants don't need it either. During soil preparation, a sufficient amount of nutrition was added, which will last until spring.
Carefully! Fertilizing with organic matter or nitrogen fertilizers in the fall is strictly prohibited, otherwise fertilizing will provoke increased growth of the above-ground part.
Further care comes down to preparing the plant for winter.
Important! You can read more about preparing roses for winter and covering them In this article.
Features of planting in different regions
The optimal time for planting roses in the fall in the middle zone (Moscow region) is the entire month of September. As a rule, the remaining time is enough for the plant to take root well and have time to adapt to winter.
In general, planting roses in the fall in the Urals and Siberia is not recommended; it is better to postpone it until the fall, but if you still want to do it in the fall, then it is worth considering several differences:
- The grafting is buried somewhat deeper at 6-7 cm.
- The best time for planting is August-early September, in other words, the end of summer. When planting roses later in the fall, the seedling will not have time to take root and will freeze during the first frost.
Possible errors during landing
Unfortunately, most gardeners who first undertake to plant roses in the fall in their garden plot make a number of offensive and simple mistakes. To prevent them, before the event you should carefully read the rules and timing of autumn planting.
The following mistakes are made when planting roses in the fall:
- The opinion that a seedling planted in peat will grow and develop perfectly is wrong. The plant most often begins to rot, often gets sick and ultimately dies. The best option for rooting in open ground is loamy soil rich in minerals.
- During planting, the roots do not straighten, but bend upward. Arranging the roots in this form causes problems for the plant; it grows slowly and develops poorly. Therefore, for rapid growth and budding in the first year after planting, it is recommended to ensure the correct placement of the roots.
- The grafting is too deep into the soil. The normal grafting depth is 5 cm. If the plant is planted much lower, the bush begins to become depressed, wither and die. Neither fertilizing nor abundant watering can save it.
Attention! After planting, the plant should be watered well. If the ground has subsided, it means there are gaps of empty space inside. They should be neutralized by compacting the soil well.
Thus, planting roses in the autumn has its own rules and characteristics. It is worth listening to the opinion of experienced flower growers who have planted varietal bushes more than once. Otherwise, you can ruin the young seedling by making all possible mistakes.
Planting roses in open ground is not an easy task, especially for a novice gardener. In this article we will tell you in detail how to do it correctly in order to grow a beautiful rose garden yourself.
The most suitable time for autumn planting roses is from mid-September to early October. Plants planted during this period manage to take root well before the onset of frost and quickly begin to grow in the spring. This primarily applies to regions where the winter is quite mild. In autumn, the earth is well warmed up, there is enough rainfall, so the seedlings develop better than when planting roses in the spring.
Choosing a landing site
Roses do well in a sunny area protected from the wind. In this case, groundwater must lie at least 1 m from the ground surface. It is also important to provide the plants with good drainage. The liquid should not stagnate, so a good place for roses will be a southern slope, from which melt water will quickly drain in the spring.
It is also advisable that there are no tall plants and trees near the rose garden, otherwise they will create a shadow for the flowers.
Preparing the soil for roses
Roses prefer fertile, well-drained, loose and moderately moist soil. Moreover, the thickness of the nutrient layer should be at least 40 cm. If the soil on your site is depleted, 2-3 weeks before planting, prepare a nutritious soil mixture of loamy soil and organic fertilizers (compost or humus) in a 1:1 ratio.
When planting in autumn, the soil must be prepared in advance.
Preparing seedlings
If you purchased a seedling with an open root system, soak it in water a day before planting. Then remove the leaves, using a sharp pruner, cut out all the damaged roots, cut off the slightly rotten ones to a healthy place, shorten the above-ground part to a length of 30 cm. Also remove the buds that are located below the grafting site, since wild shoots will grow from them.
Then spray the seedling with 3% iron sulfate, dip the roots into clay mixed with mullein in a 2:1 ratio. This will protect the rose from diseases and pests.
Carefully inspect the rose seedling. It must have at least three well-developed, intact shoots. Saplings with an open root system should have branched roots and many small roots.
Planting roses in autumn in 6 steps
1. Dig a hole 40 cm in diameter and 50-70 cm deep.
2. Place drainage from broken bricks, pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom if the soil in the area is heavy; or lay a layer of clay 7 cm thick if the soil is sandy. Pour fertile soil on top.
3. Place the seedling on it, carefully straightening the roots.
4. Fill the remaining space with soil dug out of the hole or with a previously prepared soil mixture (see the section “Preparing soil for roses”), mixing it with 1-2 cups of ash.
The root collar of the seedling or the grafting site should be 5 cm below the surface of the ground, and for standard roses - 10 cm.
5. Lightly compact the soil and water generously. To better soak the water, it is better to do this in several passes. In total, the liquid consumption should be 1-2 buckets per bush.
6. To prevent the roots of the plant from freezing during autumn frosts, cover the seedlings with a layer of dry peat 15-20 cm thick. This will also help retain moisture in the soil. After 2 weeks, slightly level the peat hill.
When planting flowers in groups, please note: the distance between bushes of park roses should be 75-90 cm. Polyantha, hybrid tea and floribunda roses should be planted at a distance of 30-60 cm. And when planting climbing and standard roses, the distance between bushes should be increased to 1 m .
What to do if you are late planting roses?
If the weather suddenly turns bad in the fall, and you have not yet had time to plant the rose seedlings purchased in advance, you should not do it hastily, as the plants will not have time to take root. It is better to bury them in an inclined position in a greenhouse or in a trench (about 40 cm deep) dug in unprotected soil before spring. When frosts begin, cover the seedlings with spruce branches and peat, and cover them with snow on top.
In addition, seedlings can be placed in a basement with a temperature of about 0°C.
In autumn you can also plant rose cuttings. If you are interested in this method of flower propagation, read the articles:
Reproduction of roses by cuttings: do you know how?
How to take rose cuttings in 5 steps? It’s very simple if you read our article.
Cutting roses - 7 useful tips
What do you need to know to carry out the procedure correctly?
Today there are many rose hybrids that do not require much attention when growing. Thanks to this, beginners in gardening have the opportunity to choose a type according to their preferences and climatic conditions. Among the modern variety of varieties, along with heat-loving ones, there are frost-resistant representatives that can take root without problems even in Siberia. To grow roses better, you must follow basic rules.
1 Description, types and varieties
Rose is a generalized name for all representatives of this flower line that are part of the rosehip genus. As they grow, they form bushes that vary in height depending on the species. Some do not exceed 30 cm, others can reach 2.5 m. Based on the type of shoots, they are divided into uterine and annual. The standard classification also does not apply to leaf shape; it all depends on the type.
The appearance, color and size of flowers vary. There are buds from 2–3 cm in diameter to 15–20 cm (with the number of petals from 5 to 100). The color range is striking in its diversity; there are red, white, yellow, pink, black and even blue. The pride of breeders has become roses that change their color during flowering. There is a conditional division of varieties into classes. This helps you navigate correctly and choose the most appropriate option. The emphasis is placed not only on decorative indicators, but also on the place of intended cultivation - in the country, in open ground or at home.
Common varieties of roses, often used in garden design, depending on their group affiliation:
- Floribunda - Aprikola, Aspirin-Rose, Bengali, Black Forest Rose, Crescendo, Debut, Gebruder Grimm, Hermann-Hesse-Rose, Intarsia, Isarperle, Kosmos, Innocencia, Schone Koblenzerin.
- Ground cover roses - Bluhwunder 08, Heidetraum, Sedana, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Stadt Rom, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Sorrento, Stadt Rom.
- Scrubs - Comedy, Goldspatz, Flashlight, La Rose de Molinard, Larissa, Medley Pink, Pink Swany, Shining Light, Yellow Meilove.
- Hybrid tea roses - Elbflorenz, Grande Amore, Eliza, La Perla, Pink Paradise, Schloss Ippenburg, Souvenir de Baden-Baden.
- Large-flowered climbing plants - Golden Gate, Hella, Jasmina, Kir Royal, Laguna.
The main groups of varieties of garden roses:
| Species name | Characteristic | Image |
| Park | Decorative representatives of roses. Endowed with increased winter hardiness, they tolerate low temperatures well without shelter in regions of the middle climatic zone. They are easy to care for and do not require annual pruning. They begin to bloom in late May - early June, the duration ranges from 2 weeks to 1.5 months. Bushes grow from 1 to 3 m in height | |
| Hybrid tea | Bushes no more than 80 cm high. They are distinguished by long-lasting and spectacular flowering. The buds bloom once and last from June until autumn. The flowers are large, 10–15 cm in diameter. The varieties are not frost-resistant, they need protective shelter in regions with cold winters | |
| Polyanthaceae | Numerous inflorescences form on the shoots. They bloom from June until the first frost. Medium-sized flowers - 7–10 cm in diameter | |
| Floribunda roses | An intermediate variety between hybrid tea and polyanthus roses. When opened, the buds are large and emit a pleasant aroma. Abundant flowering is observed for a long period. They can withstand the cold, staying in the open ground for the winter. | |
| Climbing | They are divided into 2 subspecies: small- and large-flowered. The first variety is characterized by buds with a diameter of up to 4–5 cm; the second - from 5 to 10 cm. A distinctive feature is flexible long shoots, at the ends of which small group inflorescences are collected | |
| Miniature | Compact bushes, abundantly sprinkled with small buds. Endowed with a long flowering period, right up to the first winter cold. In gardens they are grown not only in flower beds, but also in hanging and stationary flowerpots or plant pots. | |
| Ground cover scrubs | Unusually decorative roses that are planted as a continuous flowering lawn. Unpretentious to care, cold-resistant and with increased immunity to disease | |
| Modern park | A group that includes hybrids of Cordes, musk rose, rugosa, scrubs and moiesi. In short, all varieties are called scrubs. Includes all varieties that, for some reason, do not fall into other groups. They are characterized by the following features: buds of an atypical configuration and different colors, smell pleasant, bushes are vigorous, strong and up to 2 m high. They have repeated flowering throughout the growing season. The plants are unpretentious, have strong immunity, and are frost-resistant. | |
| Shrubs | The main difference is a large bush with shoots diverging to the sides. Even with minimal care they grow up to 2.5–2.8 m in height. The following varieties are most popular among gardeners: Modern Shrub, Grandiflora. In landscape design they are often used as hedges. | |
| Cascade | Rose hips with grafted climbing and ground cover roses at a height of 130–150 cm. The stems are long, sometimes drooping. The shape, size and color of flowers vary and depend on the result of grafting |
Rules for growing and caring for climbing roses in open ground
2 Selection of seedlings
If you want to get lush roses in your garden, you should choose the seedlings wisely. First of all, pay attention to the external condition. Shoots and stems should be green in color, elastic in structure, with bark without defects or damage. It is necessary to have living and healthy kidneys. The requirements for the root system are similar: no breaks, bends or rot. Feel the soil where the seedling is located so that it is slightly moist. The foliage must be alive, green, and without spots.
Important points to pay attention to when choosing seedlings:
- A sales tag is required for a quality product. It contains all the necessary information: species, variety, selection.
- Availability of ADR marking - a similar icon denotes varieties with increased resistance to diseases and better decorative qualities.
- The most expensive seedlings have 3 or more shoots, 2 of which grow from grafting; cheap ones have only 2, both from the vaccination site.
Roses come with open or closed roots, in containers. After purchasing seedlings, it is not recommended to delay planting. This is usually done in the fall, before winter. However, in the regions of the middle zone, including the Moscow region, planting is carried out in the spring. Otherwise, fragile young roots do not have time to take root in a new place and die under the influence of frost. It is allowed to plant roses in the summer, which is guaranteed to give good results. This method may be more expensive.
Azalea - rules for growing in open ground and care at home
3 Landing
Regardless of the variety, all roses prefer a loose, soft, fertile substrate with good drainage and an acidity pH of 6–6.5. It is unacceptable to plant flowers in an area where similar species have previously grown for 8–10 years in a row. Such land is completely devastated; no fertilizer can restore the missing elements in its composition. At the same time, there is an accumulation of pathogenic microflora there.
Despite its love of light, the plant is not recommended to be planted in direct sunlight. This will not stop flowering, but the decorative appearance will change: the roses become faded and withered. Therefore, a place is selected with shading, which is important during the midday hours. The ideal location is next to low garden trees or along fences.
Before planting, the seedlings are prepared: roots that are too long are trimmed with pruning shears, and dry ones are completely removed. It is unacceptable to touch the thread-like roots. When planting in spring, the stems are shortened to 30–35 cm, leaving up to 4 buds on the surface. The seedling is placed in a bucket of water for 2–3 hours.
If clay soil prevails on the site, then river sand is added to the planting hole, and the sandstone is diluted with leaf compost. Sequence of agrotechnical activities:
- A hole is dug 2–3 times larger than the size of the earthen ball with roots. The bottom is well loosened.
- The seedling is buried to a level 4–5 cm higher than the grafting site. The extracted substrate is mixed with compost in a ratio of 1:3 and pure wood ash is added.
- The free space is carefully filled, the surface is slightly compacted.
- Upon completion of the procedure, moisten the planting site generously. To prevent water from spreading, make a furrow around the perimeter.
It is imperative to hill up the root space not only immediately after planting, but in spring and autumn. In the first case, such a technique helps prevent rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in the second, it will protect the roots from freezing.
You can plant roses from seeds. It is believed that they take a long time to germinate, but it is possible to speed up germination by first keeping the material in the cold. When sowing before winter, it is advisable to treat the seeds with a stimulating solution. The bed is dug up, compost, peat and humus are added to it. Make parallel furrows about 4 cm deep into which sowing is carried out. In this case, maintain an interval of 15–20 cm. Sprinkle soil on top. If the winter is expected to be frosty, to be on the safe side, cover the bed with any suitable material. It is better to prepare the area for spring sowing in the fall.
Another effective option for germinating seeds is seedlings at home. A favorable period for this is the beginning of February. The seed material is first placed in the cold for several months, then soaked in a growth stimulator. They are planted in separate pots into which a peat-sand mixture is poured. The seeds are deepened by 3–4 cm, sprinkled with sand and moistened with a spray bottle. With the appearance of 2–3 strong leaves, the seedlings are picked individually. In May, they are transferred to a permanent place of growth - in the garden.
Planting and rules for caring for Bartzell peony in open ground
4 Care
For full development and abundant flowering, roses must be cared for. Mandatory procedures are:
- Watering is carried out once every 7 days so that the soil is saturated to a depth of at least 25 cm. Otherwise, the plant takes on superficial roots, which are easily damaged during subsequent loosening. Moisturize 2 times more often if the weather is hot. It is advisable to cover the root circle with humus or peat mulch. Then the moisture will evaporate less intensely.
- Before the onset of the first frost (in October), the bushes are wrapped in burlap, and the roots are sprinkled with a mixture of earth and sand.
- Pruning plays a primary role in general care. In the spring they resort to formative training. In summer, faded buds, drooping and diseased leaves are removed. In autumn, dry and damaged shoots are removed. The cut areas are treated with garden varnish. Before the onset of winter, all weakened stems and shoots are pruned.
- Rotted horse manure is used as fertilizer; chicken and pork manure are contraindicated. This is due to their high acidity. Any fresh organic matter blocks nitrogen in the soil, thereby inhibiting the growth of flowers. The first time fertilizer is applied before planting the buds. Calcium nitrate is suitable (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water). During the period of active growth, they are fed with infused liquid mullein, mineral supplements or herbal infusions. Frequency - once every 2 weeks.
From mid-summer all fertilizing is stopped and watering is reduced to a minimum. The plant needs to go into a dormant state, which serves as preparation for wintering.
5 Reproduction
Roses can be propagated by seed and vegetative methods. The first option is in little demand, since it does not retain varietal characteristics. Therefore, it is used more often in relation to wild representatives. The seeds are collected when the fruits turn red. The raw materials are first stratified in moistened sand and kept until spring at a temperature of +3...+4°C. In spring, the seeds are treated with a stimulant and planted in open ground. The top is mulched with humus. After some time, the plantings are thinned out, distributing the bushes at a distance of 10–15 cm from each other. In summer, mineral fertilizers are applied. It is grown until next August, then used as a rootstock.
The most successful method of propagation is by cuttings, along with grafting and dividing the bush:
| Method name | Description | Image |
| Summer cuttings | In the morning or evening, cut off strong shoots with slight lignification. Cuttings 13–15 cm long are prepared. Several leaves and 2–3 live buds are left on each. The lower part is cleared of foliage. The bottom is treated with a growth stimulator, the cutting is immersed in water, where pink petals are placed. Planted directly into the soil, previously sprayed with potassium permanganate. Cover the top with a glass cap to create greenhouse conditions. The optimal temperature during the day is not lower than +25°C, at night +19…+20°C | |
| Rooting in potatoes | The most popular and easiest method of reproduction. In this way, the cuttings are saturated with carbohydrates and starch from potatoes. In a light area, dig a ditch about 15 cm deep and fill it with sand to a third of the volume. The cuttings are first stuck into the potatoes 10–12 cm and placed in the prepared recess. Further manipulations are standard: cover with a cap, after a while hardening is carried out. Once every 5 days, water with sugar syrup | |
| Reproduction in a package | The bottom of the cuttings is moistened with aloe juice, then deepened into a lump of earth placed in a plastic bag. Close hermetically, after releasing the air from inside. Hang it on the window for germination. A month later, when young roots appear, they are planted in open ground. | |
| Rooting in water | Freshly cut stems, divided into cuttings, are immersed in distilled water. Before this, thorns and other vegetation are removed from the surface. Change the water regularly until the cuttings take root. | |
| Vaccination | Reproduction by grafting is suitable for young rose hips. The procedure is carried out in mid-summer. First, the lateral branches of the rootstock are removed, and the root collar is cleared of soil. An incision is made in the shape of the letter T, where the cutting is placed. Fix it in place in any way. After 15–20 days, the kidney is checked: if it is swollen, then the vaccination was successful. If it is black, then the method was unsuccessful. Before the onset of winter frosts, grafted roses are planted 5–6 cm above the grafting site. In the spring, the soil is raked. The plant is pruned above the graft. When pulling, pinch the top above the third leaf | |
| Dividing the bush | Suitable for ungrafted varieties of roses. In the spring, before the buds open, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. Each should consist of roots and shoots. Bare areas are powdered with crushed coal. Then they are seated in separate places in the garden. | |
| By layering | With the onset of the first spring warmth, a low-lying shoot on the bush is chosen. Bend it to the ground and place it in a dug hole. First, a circular cut is made on the surface. Secure the shoot in place and sprinkle it with earth. Further care is moistening until the cuttings take root. The next year, the baby is separated from the maternal source and planted separately |
6 Diseases and pests
Most roses are endowed with stable immunity to many diseases, but this does not exclude the possibility of damage. The most common diseases are:
- Rust - the peak of the disease is observed in the spring. Brown spots appear on the leaf surface, and orange clusters of spores appear on the inside, which turn black by the end of summer. Unauthorized leaf fall begins, the stems acquire a brown tint. The situation can be corrected by watering with a decoction of field ivy. The affected areas are removed.
- Black spotting - appears in August, towards the end of the month. The leaves instantly become covered with black areas surrounded by yellow. Gradually this spreads to the stems. Leaves fall. If appropriate measures are not taken in time, the flowers die. Treatment is the same as for rust damage.
- Powdery mildew - a whitish coating forms on the leaves and shoots, then sagging forms. The disease is characteristic of varieties that are grown in greenhouses and at home. The disease is characterized by rapid spread. Plants showing signs of damage are cut off and destroyed. The ground is sprinkled with ash and dug up.
The most dangerous insect pests are aphids and spider mites. With few attacks, you can destroy the first pest manually or wash the leaves with soapy water. If there are a lot of insects, then treatment with insecticidal preparations helps. The tick is combated by applying tobacco or wormwood infusion. If care is not taken properly, cases of attacks by thrips, sawflies and cicadas are observed.
If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the plant turns yellow. The spread begins from below and is accompanied by the falling of leaves. The same thing happens with the top. If the foliage turns yellow only at the edges, this indicates a lack of potassium. Yellow veins indicate a low amount of microelements.
7 Design
Most people are accustomed to planting roses in separate flower beds, but modern trends in landscape design have made their own adjustments. It is fashionable to combine them with perennial flowering crops or low-growing shrubs.
To design mixborders, it is recommended to take varieties of musky representatives due to their brightness and proportional shape of the bushes. Low varieties with small flowers are ideal. Then they do not dominate their neighbors, but harmoniously merge into a beautiful composition. Unpretentious varieties are best placed in unfavorable areas of the garden, and climbing roses will effectively decorate fences and terraces.
Having even a small summer cottage, few people can refuse to plant roses. What can we say about the luxurious areas of most country houses! The variety of varieties, shades and sizes of these flowers allows you to create an amazing garden that can become the envy of guests and a paradise for you. However, first you will have quite earthly concerns and questions: how to plant roses in autumn or spring, what varieties to choose, how to plant and care for seedlings correctly.
Rosary of different varieties
General points about planting roses in the garden
Each variety of these beautiful flowers has its own characteristics regarding planting in open ground, subsequent care, flowering, fertilization and wintering. For this reason, it is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of how to plant roses, but it is quite possible to identify some general points and fundamental differences between their main varieties.
Planting a seedling
Planting season: autumn or spring
There are no fundamental differences between planting roses in spring and autumn, but spring planting has some advantages.
- Suitable for beginners. Over the summer, the seedlings will get stronger and will meet the winter cold with full strength. For inexperienced gardeners, such help from the weather is a good help in growing fancy species.
- There is time for the plants to acclimatize. If the roses are not grafted in your climate zone, then before frost they will have time to adapt to new conditions.
- Spring seedlings are better quality planting material. At this time of year they are in their “very juice”, characterized by a developed and healthy root system.
Roses need a lot of light
Autumn planting of roses carries the risk of seedlings dying from severe or early frosts and acquiring overexposed material with a weak root system.
Choosing a place for flowers
When choosing a place for roses, you should be guided by their growing conditions and the characteristics of the garden (area, topography, etc.). The first include:
- Good lighting. It is necessary for abundant flowering and active growth of plants. It is recommended to avoid planting on the south side in direct sunlight. They are often destructive for roses.
- No strong winds. If this is not possible, based on the climate, then the façade of a house, trees and shrubs, or an outbuilding can provide protection for plants.
- Suitable soil. The ideal option is loam, but with proper fertilization, your roses will thrive on both sandy and clay soils.
Good lighting is the key to abundant flowering
As for how to choose a place for roses depending on the style and characteristics of the garden plot, everything is relatively simple. Roses should be visible. And not just to be seen somewhere in the distance, but to be on the front line - where they will receive due admiration for their beauty. These are braided facades, rose gardens on the site in front of a residential building, and decoration of the main path leading to it from the gate with flowers. Don’t forget about recreational areas and small architectural forms.
Density of planting of seedlings
The result you get in 1–3 years depends on the density of planting roses. What should you be guided by when measuring the distance between seedlings?
- The size of adult plants. The larger they are, the less often they should be planted. However, under all favorable conditions, even proven varieties may deviate slightly from expected size or growth rates.
- The principle of reasonableness. Excessively dense planting will lead to the fact that most shoots will experience a catastrophic lack of light. The other extreme is too much distance between seedlings. This threatens the rapid drying out of the soil and the growth of weeds.
- Quality of planting material. If it is in doubt, then planting should be done in smaller increments.
Rosary along the path
Preparing the soil for the rose garden
The work at this stage consists of digging up the soil and adding fertilizers to it. After preparing the soil for roses, wait 3-4 weeks and then start planting them. You can't do it right away. After a couple of heavy waterings or rains, the soil will noticeably settle, and the root system of the seedling will rise. This risks freezing during cold weather.
The main components of nutritious soil for roses are humus, compost and turf or garden soil. Depending on the type of soil, clay (dry, in powder form) or sand is added to this mixture.
- for sandy areas – 2:2:1:1 (clay, turf soil, humus, compost). Clay is a binding component that retains moisture in the soil, preventing it from drying out excessively between waterings;
- for clayey soils – 6:1:1:1 (sand, humus, compost, turf soil). Sand, on the contrary, plays the role of a loosening agent, improving the throughput of clay for water and air.
It will greatly facilitate the preparation of soil for a rose garden by using vermicompost instead of the three main components of the nutrient mixture. After its preparation, planting holes are dug. Their depth and width are approximately equal and are about 60 cm. The finished hole is filled 2/3 with fertilizer, and then with dug earth.
Planting roses in the garden
First of all, pay attention to the seedlings. Before planting, they must be pruned, removing damaged roots, the weakest shoots, and buds. It is recommended to leave 3-4 healthy branches with 2-3 eyes.
It is important! The roots of the seedlings should not be dry before planting, so they are pre-soaked in water. Depending on the condition of the root system, this will take from 2 to 10 hours. A growth stimulator can be added to the water.
Soaking seedlings
General rules for laying out a rosary
A small mound of soil is formed in the planting hole and the seedling is lowered onto it. Please note: when planting, the place where the rose is grafted should be buried about 5 cm into the ground. It is at this level that the seedling is held during the work.
Burying the seedling
All roots are carefully laid and straightened so that they do not bend upward. Then the hole is filled with soil and lightly trampled down. After planting, the rose must be watered abundantly so that the soil shrinks slightly and excess air escapes. If necessary, add soil on top.
Watering roses after planting
The next stage is hilling the flower by sprinkling it with soil at the roots. Such an earthen roller (about 20 cm in height) will protect a weak plant from wind, scorching sun or the first slight cold. After two weeks, the seedling can be “released”. During this time he will become quite strong.
Hilling a rose
Some gardeners additionally cover the surface of the earth around the flower with mulch (sawdust, pine needles, humus, sand), which allows it to maintain optimal humidity and temperature. The looseness of the soil is also maintained and subsidence from watering and precipitation is prevented.
Mulching the soil in the planting hole
Mulching the soil around flowers
This is a general scheme for planting rose seedlings, but some species have their own characteristics.
Features of planting bush roses and caring for them
For bush varieties, the general rules for planting roses are relevant, but there are some nuances of care. Firstly, for bush roses it is recommended to use foliar feeding. Secondly, due to the proximity of the root system and shoots to the surface of the earth, regular and thorough removal of weeds is necessary.
Shrub roses
Thirdly, for such roses it is especially important to have strong branches capable of producing flowers. All weak shoots growing in the center of the bush are pruned. Please note: in order for the plants to gain strength, all buds are also removed in the first year after planting.
Shrub roses in the garden
Planting and caring for climbing varieties
The peculiarities of planting and caring for a climbing rose are related to its ability to entwine various supports, be it the facade of a house or a decorative lattice or fence. So, to create a dense pink canvas, seedlings must be planted not in holes, but in a trench. The distance between them is usually 40–60 cm.
Climbing roses in facade decoration
If a climbing rose is planted near a building, then its foundation is additionally waterproofed. This measure prevents the destruction of concrete from abundant watering of the plant.
Climbing varieties require regular pruning. It is carried out in the spring and after each flowering. For the winter, all shoots are bent to the ground, covered with spruce branches and covered with wooden houses. If it is not possible to bend down all the shoots, then they are covered directly on the support.
Standard rose
Planting standard roses
The peculiarities of planting and caring for standard roses are due to the fact that in appearance they resemble small trees with a clearly defined trunk and crown. They require a larger planting hole than other species, since their root system is more powerful. The distance between seedlings is usually 100–120 cm.
The most unusual thing about planting standard varieties is burying the seedlings in the ground at an angle of 30–40 degrees. This is done so that the plant can be bent to the ground for the winter.
Standard roses along the path
The crown also needs special attention. After planting the seedling, the growth of buds on the shoots is stimulated, while protecting the plant. To do this, the crown is covered with moss and covered for 10–14 days. Subsequently, with the help of pruning, it is given the optimal shape for this variety.
It is obvious that Rose is a rather capricious young lady. It will take a lot of work - from preparatory theoretical aspects to practical care for the rooted seedling, but the result is worth it. You can surround yourself with the beauty of the most luxurious and amazing flowers that date back to the times of Ancient Rome!
