Here's a bunch of initial material. These are 9 concrete blocks, 4 cubes of wood - mostly 6 meter 5x10 boards, but there are also 10x10 and three 10x15 for the base. There are regular edged boards. Delivered on April 28, 2007. 
We started on the morning of April 29th. They dug holes for the blocks, poured sand into them and placed concrete blocks there. Foundations were laid on the blocks. 
The site is, of course, sloped, so to maintain the horizontal lines, we artificially increase the height of some blocks in this simple way. 
All the foundation beams are laid on blocks, with 5x10 boards on top - these are the bottom joists of the subfloor. All sides, including diagonals, are level. 
The subfloor boards were nailed onto the joists and trimmed. In theory, they had to be processed from below, for example, by mining. But we did not do this due to her absence. 
We laid waterproofing on top of the subfloor boards (in our case, Izospan D). According to the drawing, white floor joists were placed on it at a certain distance - they are placed on the end. On top of the joists, so-called boards were nailed along the edges. bottom trim. The white floor joists take on the main load of the house's weight (and transfer it to the base). 
10x10 corner posts were placed at the corners of the lower trim, aligned with a plumb line and secured with temporary jibs. The beams of the upper trim were placed on top of them. Then they began to insert wall studs between the upper and lower frames - exactly on top of the white floor joists. 
By the end of the first day of construction, we had all the studs in place and the joists for the second floor floor on top. To prevent the house from shaking, we strengthened it in the corners with these jibs. You could also insert a couple of these in the center of each “long” side of the wall for reliability... 
On the second day of construction (April 30), we threw boards on the joists of the second floor (the future floor of the 2nd floor) and spent half a day making rafter legs (in the photo leaning against the back of the house). After that, they were lifted with the help of 2 people, two more took them on the 2nd floor, placed them on the ends of the logs and held them. The third person installed the stop plumb and nailed it with temporary jibs to... anything (floor boards, walls). 
And so we put them one by one. I will note one feature of the frame - the rafters were placed on the joists, and did not hang from them. And since the logs were placed 50 cm outside the walls, they formed a canopy. 
By the end of the second day, the frame was completely ready. The rafters are installed and secured between themselves and the house with jibs. 
It can be seen that all load-bearing elements are aligned along the lower joists - racks, upper joists, rafters. 
20 days of work in the city passed, and on May 20 I arrived at the field to continue construction. I began to apply waterproofing (Izospan D) to the rafters, pressing it against the rafters with thin strips. I began to stuff the sheathing on top of the slats. To get 7 meters (50 cm extensions on the sides) I had to put two pieces - 5 and 2 m. The joints of the boards ran up the roof in a checkerboard pattern (the 1st “batten” was the joint on the left, the 2nd was the joint on the right, etc.). At first I set the distance between the battens at random, and only then learned about the special sizes for metal roofing. 
That's how it was in the beginning. 
...and so it became in the end. The lathing took 2 days of work. On June 2, I brought the roofing - metal tiles. Transported in two cars from Moscow (150 kg per roof). 
In just one day of work, the two of us managed to finish one roof slope. Of course, I did it for the first time - it turned out a little crooked. But how smooth the second slope turned out! The roof was secured with special self-tapping screws (bought together with the roof). 
I spent almost a month and a half traveling on business trips. I arrived to continue construction only on July 14th. I delivered a white floor and lining (6m) by truck for the external cladding of the walls. The white floor was placed inside the house upside down (so that the front side would not darken and would dry out). 
I inserted the windows into the places designated for them in advance - on polyurethane foam. A window sill was previously inserted under the window frame. 
On the second floor I laid and nailed the floor boards normally. Having previously left a hatch for the stairs. 
I installed vertical wall posts on the gable. I had to cut them out figuratively under the inclined rafter boards. 
The next day they put windproofing on the wall (Izospan A). We didn’t think for a long time - we simply wrapped the house with a roll a couple of times, and then used a knife to cut out holes for the windows and door. 
They began to cover the walls with clapboard on top of the windproofing. We started from the most difficult places - from the back wall. The lining was not sawed, it was sewn on as a whole (6m), then cut off at the ends. They sewed naturally with galvanized nails. 
After the first floor was sheathed (1.5 days), work continued with the gables. Pieces of vapor barrier were figuredly cut out. We also had to cut out the lining for the cladding. 
Here I will specifically draw attention to the gap that appeared between the top trim and the floor of the 2nd floor. This gap is the height of the outrigger joists. Although they are hemmed at the bottom, forming a canopy on the street, it still BLOWS VERY STRONGLY into this gap. Moreover, it blows on both the first and second floors. It needs to be closed. This will be shown further. 
Several days passed, and they brought me the insulation that I had pre-ordered in Pushkino. I fundamentally chose the “stone wool” type material - slabs based on basalt fiber. Next, from the whole variety of these plates, I chose Rocklight produced in Ryazan (the cheapest). The package consists of 10 slabs measuring 1200x600x50 mm. One package is 0.432 m3. To insulate the entire house (1st and 2nd floor) I need 10 cubic meters. In short, I brought 24 of these packs. 
External work is over, internal work has begun. I started with insulating the floor. The slabs were cut with a knife and laid between the joists of the first floor. Two slabs each. 
After laying one row of insulation, I covered it on top with a vapor barrier (Izospan V) with a bend on the walls. After that, I moved the floor boards to this place, freeing up the next space for insulation. 
Pleasant little things that are hard to come by - inserting glass into windows, hand-made window moldings. 
I made the door myself. An analogy with walls - a frame, insulation inside, steam and wind insulation, lining on both sides with clapboard. A galvanized sheet of iron was placed under the lining of the outer (street) side. This should make it more difficult to cut down the door with an ax :) 
After the floor was insulated, I began laying white floor boards on top. The technology is simple - the first board is placed and nailed into the protruding tenon with a nail at an angle. Then the second board is placed (the tenon of the first board fits into the groove of the second) and sewn with force to the first board - to minimize the gaps between the boards. For myself, I decided that 1mm was acceptable, but I tried to keep it down. To do this, brackets like these were driven into the joists in several places. Then wedges were driven between the bracket and the board, which supported the board and reduced the gaps. After this, the board was nailed down, the wedges and brackets were removed. Of course, some of the boards were “a little” overdried and turned into “screws”... I had to suffer especially with them. 
A third of the floor has been laid. 
To protect from moisture and sun, I decided to paint the walls with a special impregnation. I chose Pinotex. First I painted it with a colorless layer, and then with a tint (color). The store said that colorless by itself does not protect anything, it only protects with color. The thing is quite poisonous - it is impossible to stay in the house for a week after painting the walls. 
Finally I got around to sealing the cracks in the ceiling that were mentioned earlier. Everything was resolved quite simply - a piece of clapboard was cut out along the width of the next gap, nailed to the top panel of the wall sheathing (to do this, the floor on the second floor had to be removed in this place), closing the gap. A piece of vapor barrier was inserted from the inside (not blown through) and secured with bars along the joists (floors). 
This is what the structure looks like from the second floor. I had to remove a couple of floor boards to make it easier to work with. 
After the floor was laid, I started insulating the walls. The technology is the same as with the floor. Previously, I just inserted additional crossbars between the posts - I am going to line the inside with clapboard vertically. 
A vapor barrier (Izospan V) is also laid on top of the insulation here. It is secured with staples using a special construction stapler. Wherever possible, overlaps are made along the edges. 
The cornice protects the window and part of the wall from water flowing from the gable. And the bars protect the entire house from thieves. For now, this, alas, is a necessary measure - in winter there is no one in the fields, but there have been “incidents”. 
Before I had time to screw on the last bars, snow began to fall. This happened exactly on Pokrov, October 14th. 
This is what the house looked like on October 14, 2007. In total I probably spent a month on construction. I did it alone if possible, but of course I called for help on difficult things (frame, rafters, sheathing, roofing, sheathing). At the moment, the entire first floor is insulated, except for the floor - it has not yet been completed. I haven't covered the inside with clapboard yet. So far ~80 thousand rubles have been spent. And there’s still a lot to do... 
Literally a few days before the New Year 2008, I insulated the ceiling. Now the entire first floor is insulated. Practice has shown that with 4.2 kW of gas heating, the temperature rises to 20 degrees in half an hour (-7 outside) and is maintained at +17 with constant heating of 1.2 kW. 
Dreaming of your own plot of land, where you can make yours a reality and be content with the good fruits of your activities on earth, you cannot help but think about building a house on your plot.
Is it possible to build a house in a country house? not only quickly, but also for very little money? Yes, you can. There are many interesting inexpensive country house projects. The complexity of construction work depends on the chosen material.
On your own site you can build both elite and inexpensive, but at the same time quite comfortable housing. It all depends on individual tastes and preferences, budget capabilities, and selected raw materials. When deciding how to build a house in the country, you need to take care of maximum comfort. You can do everything the old fashioned way (even down to adobe), but it’s better to turn to new technologies, interesting solutions that have not been used before - isn’t it interesting to experiment? Still, projects are not drawn up by competent specialists, and as for opinions: as many builders, as many opinions.
Concerning environmentally friendly home, then in our time it is difficult to build a house that is 100% environmentally friendly, taking into account the finishing. You can, of course, build a house, for example, from straw blocks and with an earthen floor, but let's remember the tale of the three little pigs and the wolf However, a house must also be a fortress to some extent. And yet, of course, it is worth choosing the most environmentally friendly and natural materials as possible in the modern world.
Many people believe that building a house is not a feasible task. But modern materials and technologies allow build small and inexpensive housing in a short time.
Features of a summer house
The basic requirements for the construction are established depending on personal preferences. An interesting solution is a house according to your own design, in which you can embody in the smallest detail exactly your preferences, and not the imagination of the architect. Before you start creating it, you need to decide what it should be. And the main thing is not to rush. Let you draw up your project for a year or two, but during this time you will be able to carefully work out and take into account all sorts of nuances, and there are more than enough of them in such an important peasant matter as building a house.
There are certain requirements for objects:
Speed of construction work.
Constructions must be carried out in compliance with technology.
Durability of the structure. Even from inexpensive raw materials, it should not quickly collapse.
Should not require large capital investments.
There must be the possibility of modernization, that is, expanding the building in the future (or growing upward, the so-called “growth houses” - practice shows that this is better than an extension).
If you plan to stay only in the summer, then you do not need to use expensive elements or special insulation.
Most often, buildings are made of wood, brick, and stone. Often, country houses are built using frame technology, which is the cheapest (saving also on the foundation).
Stages of construction of a country house
Construction may not be as difficult as it may seem. The construction of country houses is carried out according to a standard scheme, which includes these important stages:
Foundation is carried out using a simplified method if a capital facility is not planned. For the strip base, markings are made on the ground. Shallow trenches are dug under the foundation. Formwork is installed around it and reinforcement elements are laid. Then the concrete is poured. In some cases, a pile foundation is used. However, for a light frame house, the best option would be a screw foundation, or a columnar foundation (with a grillage), which can be done with your own hands; it does not require extensive excavation work.
Process wall installation depends on the selected raw material. Simple options include a frame structure, as well as a house made of foam blocks.
Differs in complexity roof installation process. First, the rafters are made. Simple solutions include the installation of a pitched roof or a flat roof, the latter are not inferior in their performance characteristics, and in some ways are better than conventional “birdhouses” (there is a lot of controversy on this issue among professional builders, regarding the snow load, for example, leakage, but here a lot depends on the technology, the roof pie, the region). Then the sheathing is installed and the roof is covered with roofing elements.
After roof installation windows and doors are installed, and all necessary communications are carried out. The outside of the building is finished with various materials. This can be lining, siding, as well as facing types of stone and brick. Plaster or stone chips are often used.
Arrangement of all communications (see also about). Everything related to communications must be foreseen at the stage of drawing up the project (for example, where the water tank or well will be located, and taking this into account the location of the pipe exit from the house, etc.).
Nowadays, a monolithic slab foundation (the so-called insulated Swedish slab - USP) is becoming fashionable. On the websites of construction companies you can read that it is cheaper than a strip foundation, the main arguments are given - no formwork is needed (in this case it is very simple) and large-scale excavation work, and expanded polystyrene is supposedly cheaper than concrete. However, in reality everything may not be entirely like that. For example, you need not ordinary polystyrene foam, but extruded polystyrene foam, which is even more expensive than concrete; USP requires a lot of reinforcement, you need to rent a concrete pump (+ to the cost). Yes, such a foundation is also a subfloor for the house, but the claim that it is cheaper than a strip foundation (together with the floor installed during the construction of the house) is doubtful.
What material to build the cottage from. Inexpensive options
When thinking about what to build a country house from, it is worth considering that raw materials should be selected taking into account financial capabilities and quality characteristics. If you study the market offers well, you can choose the best option for your needs.
When choosing materials, you should consider the following options:
House made of timber is popular due to its environmental friendliness. Wood retains heat remarkably well. The disadvantages include a shorter service life compared to stone. In addition, wood is an expensive option. Modern construction methods include the construction of rounded timber. Such a structure can be erected in a few months.
Porous and lightweight options are foam blocks/gas blocks. This material does not require a reinforced foundation. But for foam blocks, a perfectly flat surface and reinforcement are important, because... They are quite fragile and can crack. It is recommended to use denser foam blocks in the bottom row, for example brand D500, not lower, and then D400, but not lower. It is worth considering that foam block elements strongly absorb moisture. But their main advantage, according to many, is the ability to refuse insulation from the outside (especially in southern latitudes, and with sufficient thickness of the foam block), which will significantly reduce costs for the construction of a country house.
Frame house used not only in the warm season, but also in colder periods. To do this, it must be properly insulated. In addition, this building will not cost a lot of money, since supports (column, screw foundation) can be made cheaply. But frame structures will require additional finishing. And yet many agree that such a house is cheapest option.
But the most complex and expensive is the structure made of brick or stone, which, however, are classics. Such objects are being built more slowly than others. During construction, it is important to comply with all technologies, as well as SNiP standards. At the time of installation work, such structures do not need to be subjected to external finishing, especially if the brick is facing. You can save money on this.
There is also an interesting and very inexpensive option (perhaps the most inexpensive) of building a country house, and as quickly as possible, from sea containers. Such houses can look very stylish, and they are quite possible to live in, despite the skepticism of many. There are many articles on the Internet about how you can build it yourself.
How much does it cost to build a country house?
In fact, a trivial question to which no one will give an exact answer. A small country house of the same area can be built for either 50 or 500 rubles. - materials, whether you will build it yourself or hire workers, what the foundation will be like, terrain conditions (if there is a slope or the soil is very heaving, loam, the foundation will be more expensive), type of roof, windows (their number and sizes), finishing and much, much more. something else that is difficult to take into account right away.
Some builders say this: take the cost of the foundation and multiply by 3, and that will be the final cost (of course, very roughly) of a turnkey country house.
On the Internet, on the websites of construction companies there are special calculators which will help calculate the cost of building a house. True, they usually take into account the cost of the company’s work. But what if you are going to build a house with your own hands? The answer here is simple - you decide on the design of the house, the materials used, the foundation and the roof. Take the calculator in your hands and start counting in order - digging for the foundation, pouring concrete (cost of concrete), how many foam blocks (or cubes of wood) will be needed, and so on. How you calculate everything, down to the smallest detail, will determine whether you will fit into your budget or not, in the end. Be sure to take into account that there may be different Unexpected expenses, as a rule, they always exist (costs for delivery of materials, etc.).
To properly build a house on a summer cottage, many different factors should be taken into account. The season of operation matters, as well as the complexity of the foundation. The quality of the material and the method of construction affect the durability and aesthetic properties of the structure.
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If you have your own precious experience in building a country house on your site, do not be self-centered, and share in the comments below, many will also be interested to know! Or perhaps you would like to correct something that has already been said, and express your opinion.
The dream of many city dwellers is a beautiful small house outside the city, where they can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, and feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under their feet instead of hot asphalt. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.
Planning the space
Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful, competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:
- from the street – 5 m
- from the passage – 3 m
- from the neighboring plot - 3 m
We are not considering the option with a low area - water will accumulate there. Optimally, the highest place on the site is in its northern (northwestern) part.
Projects of small country houses
Considering typical designs of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested option for a country house, but you can dispense with the utility unit, because equipment and household supplies can be stored in the attic.
You can add a terrace to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-story country houses often obtained without actually constructing a “clean” second floor, having arranged instead attic. Then on the ground floor you can plan a kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.
Advice! You can save significantly on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for installing a classic one (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you plan to live only during the “season” (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can get by with electric or infrared heaters.
Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof We replaced architecturally interesting buildings with an improved layout, one or two floors.
You are buying a kind of construction kit; such a country house can be easily erected with only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already includes all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.
A prefabricated country house is designed for a long holiday with family or friends; it is larger in area, can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.
The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin, necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work is required; it is completely ready for use.
Laying the foundation
The choice of foundation type is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on a columnar or screw foundation; heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require the laying of a strip foundation (as an option - a prefabricated one, made of reinforced concrete blocks) along the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.
It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater lies.
In the basement part it is required to install waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be used as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. As an option, roofing felt can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.
Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.
A blind area is created around the base, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the cornice), with a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, a layer of crushed stone (gravel, broken brick) is poured on top of it and filled with concrete (rolled with asphalt).
Floor and walls
Flooring begins with laying joists. To insulate the floor, insulation is laid between the joists, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the joists with a stapler, and the joints are taped. Then the subfloor is laid, for which they use an unedged, cheapest board, having previously treated it with an agent against dampness and rot. And only then the finished floor is laid out. In a two-story house, the frame for the floor on the second floor is the ceiling beams of the first.
Living in your own home has many more advantages than even the most luxurious apartment. A private home is a place where you are free to do whatever you want. Here you will not be disturbed by noisy neighbors who want to do repairs early in the morning or late at night. Here you do not run the risk of being flooded or experiencing the inconvenience that apartment residents face. Many people are accustomed to believing that buying a plot of land, much less building a house on it, costs fabulous money. However, with the development of modern technologies in construction, the cheapest technology for building a house has become several times more accessible. Now we will look at the main question: where to start, and most importantly, what to build the cheapest house from?
Preparatory stage
The first point that needs to be determined initially is the functionality of the house. What is it for?
If this is a country cottage for seasonal living, then only materials are needed,
if this is a full-fledged home for permanent residence, then completely different.
To decide what kind of house will be, you should thoroughly study the climate and weather conditions of the region where construction is planned. After all, the choice of building materials directly depends on the temperature conditions throughout the year. For regular living, a house must be constantly heated during the cold season, which entails certain financial costs. Therefore, when choosing a material for a building, you should be guided by thermophysical properties: thermal conductivity and heat capacity, as well as shrinkage.
Each climatic region has its own temperature regime, wind speed and protection class based on the level of heat-protective properties. Therefore, when choosing a material and calculating the thickness of the walls, you need to be guided by two main parameters: the coefficient of thermal resistance and thermal conductivity.
For each region, its own specially calculated thermal resistance index of the CTS is used. In order to obtain clarity about the upcoming heating costs, it is necessary to calculate the CTC of the future design. To do this, the width (δ) of the wall is divided by the thermal conductivity coefficient (λ), which is indicated in the technical characteristics of the building material R = δ / λ. The calculated value of heat transfer resistance must correspond to the standard value.
As an example, consider the use of cellular concrete, which has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.12 W/m* ºС. Let's take a block 0.3 meters thick and calculate: R = 0.3/ 0.12 = 2.5 W/m2 * ºС. This figure is below the norm and is only suitable for construction in the southern regions of Russia. A block 0.4 meters wide gives a heat transfer resistance of 0.4/0.12 = 3.3 W/m2 * ºС, which is slightly higher than the standard value and can be used in the construction of buildings in Moscow and St. Petersburg. The calculation is relevant only when laying blocks on glue.
The wall thickness corresponding to the best generally accepted standards in terms of energy efficiency can be determined using the same formula, where it will be equal to the product of the heat transfer resistance value and the thermal conductivity coefficient δ = λ x R.
It follows from this that in order to obtain the standard value of resistance λ = 3.2, the thickness of a wall made of solid coniferous wood (pine, spruce) will be equal to 0.18 x 3.2 = 0.576 m, of brick 0.81 x 3.2 = 2.592 m, and from concrete 2.04 x 3.2 = 6.528 m. At the same time, mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 140-150 mm corresponds to the standard: 0.045 x 3.2 = 0.14 m.
Therefore, when choosing a material and determining the thickness of the structure, heat transfer resistance and thermal conductivity should be taken into account.
Coefficient of thermal conductivity,
specific heat
and the change in linear dimensions is different for each material.
In addition, when choosing materials for building an inexpensive house, you need to study the market for building materials typical for a given region. Delivery of materials, as a rule, takes up a significant share of their cost.
Now you need to decide on the size of your future home. For example, do you want to build a one-story house inexpensively or will the house have more floors? What will be the area of the house in relation to the area of your plot?
You can calculate the area of your plot online.
Windows of standard sizes;
Practical layout without frills;
Simple roof;
Available building materials;
Flat small fireplace;
You should also take into account one important nuance: if you have a small plot of land, you can choose a simple project for a two-story house. This solution will be much cheaper than building a one-story large house.
The cost of a future home is determined by three components, on each of which you can save:
- the architectural layout is compact, maximum functionality and comfort and allows you to achieve 20% savings;
- a simple design solution should be rational and not contain any architectural excesses and will provide another 10% savings;
- modern materials make it possible to use the latest technologies in construction, allowing you to do the work yourself or with the involvement of a minimum amount of outside labor, which guarantees up to 40% savings in the final result.
The optimal solution for a family of 2-3 people is housing consisting of three rooms with a total area of approximately 50 m2. A suitable option would be a 6x9 house, including: two bedrooms, a living room in the form of a studio with a kitchen, a combined bathroom and toilet and a small hallway.
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Layout: maximum functionality and comfort
The main principle of space planning is to extract maximum benefit from every square meter of space. In our case, this is the ratio of total and usable space. This house, consisting of three rooms with a total area of 54 m2, will fully satisfy your needs for modern housing. Moreover, the ratio of total and usable area (52 m2) is 96.3%.
But over time, you will want to increase its area. This structure is most suitable for transformation. It can be expanded in width and height.
Second option
Important! The construction of the second floor must be thought out in advance in order to lay the appropriate foundation.
Third option, first floor
Third option, second floor
Exterior view of the house, economy option
Exterior of the house after expansion 
The key to savings: simplicity of design
Designs should also be approached as simply as possible, without additional frills. When building economically, there are a number of points that need to be taken into account:
- The selected house width of 6 m will allow you to install floor slabs without difficulty. The standard size will not require the construction of an additional load-bearing wall.
- Combining the dining room, kitchen and living room into a modern living room, according to European standards, will save on the absence of walls and doors.
- A sufficient width of the walls will be 30 cm, and heat resistance can be achieved due to the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material when cladding the house. In this case, the width of the base is reduced to 25 cm.
- It is advisable to make the walls in the house from plasterboard; they do not require a foundation and are easy to install.
- The roof is made gable, without unnecessary frills - this is the most cost-effective design.
Building a cheap house with your own hands is the most economical option
Approximately half of the construction costs are fees for performing the work. When building a cheap house, it is more advisable to do the maximum amount of work with your own hands, without the involvement of hired workers.
Why do you need to purchase only modern material? Its installation technologies are designed for the average person, so construction will not require professional skills from you and will provide an opportunity to save money. One assistant can be recruited as labor. If you do not have free time to build a house with your own hands, hire a team of two people with appropriate qualifications, retaining control over the work.
Another option is to build according to standard designs. Here you do not need to participate in construction; it is enough to accept the finished house into operation, be sure to draw up an acceptance certificate for the work performed, specifying the developer’s warranty obligations.
This 6x9 house is a great version of a two story conversion.
Reviews and disputes: which cheap house is better?
To explain which cheap house is better, we suggest you read the comments we collected from various forums:
Alexander V.
I want to talk about building a cheap house. Moreover, I will touch upon not only the monetary side of the issue, but also the labor-intensive one. We buy modern materials, preferably from a construction hypermarket, where prices are much cheaper. We discard ideas about buildings made from scrap materials (clay, straw, wild stone) as untenable. In the 21st century, we can talk about clay walls and rubble foundations. We're talking about modern housing, not Grandpa Pumpkin's house. We won’t even consider the environmental friendliness of building materials. At the time of the developed world wide web, you can find the most conflicting opinions about any material.
We will not consider hired builders either. This multiplies the estimate by at least two times initially. We carry out the construction ourselves; anyone can do it. The question is the duration of the process.
And so the foundation. When building a house you cannot do without it. The most appropriate and cost-effective is a strip foundation on piles. The task is not difficult. Every 2m we drill piles, the length depends on the soil, and fill in the grillage.
Still, the cheapest construction will be a frame house insulated with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Building a house from brick or sides with cement mortar will increase the cost of the estimate, take a lot of time, and as a result we will get a cold structure that requires insulation.
Bogdan S.
I was going to build a 6x9 house. For two months now, I have been working on a personal project and drawing up a construction estimate. I read smart books, participate in forums on all topics of interest, and watch videos. Now I’ve read it and understand that I have everything as you said: a pile foundation, a frame house, a slate roof. Interior finishing: plasterboard, OSB boards and wallpaper. Of course, plus heating and lighting. One thing I can say is that I am not investing in 10 thousand conditional raccoons. A bit more.
Sergey Zh.
I developed a project for a 50 m2 house for a friend of mine. Nothing special, a budget option, but a home for year-round use. The foundation is solid. Wooden frame house insulated with mineral wool. There is a vapor barrier film on the outside, hardboard on the inside. The roof is slate. Quite a warm building, suitable for winter use. The appearance is not very good. Just covered with vapor barrier. You can subsequently cover it with siding. But the budget is the most modest. An acquaintance spent only 4 thousand USD. True, I built it myself, I didn’t even want to hear about any hired crew.
Looking at my house, I am increasingly convinced that it is unlikely that anything can be built cheaper than a frame house. I insulated the walls, rollers, and roof with 15 cm thick mineral wool. In addition, I built an attic floor. My roof is the simplest gable roof, covered with zerolin. The outside was finished with siding, and the inside was covered with OSB and wallpaper. It cost me the pleasure of $9500.
The frame is the cheapest and warmest, but this does not mean that it is free. Everything is relative. Some friends of mine built a house from sibit. They were happy until winter came. They were frozen through the winter, and now they are deciding how to insulate themselves and what it will cost.
Of course, the main costs are building materials, which we will talk about in more detail.
Modern building materials are the cheapest way to build a house
There is enormous competition in the modern building materials market. Therefore, having made a short walk around the main points of purchase, building materials such as a hypermarket, bazaar or warehouse, it will not be difficult to find the most reasonable price. But different materials differ significantly in price.
The author of the article does not pursue the goal of promoting this or that building material, since the site is not engaged in their sale. The main thing is that a person with a limited budget for construction can become the owner of a good and solid home.
Before reading the various house options, pay attention to Compared to other houses, it is cheap to build.
Cheap brick house?
- Brick.
As many people know, brick is one of the most durable, but also the heaviest materials. Based on this, it has both advantages and disadvantages.
Advantages:
- high strength and durability;
- excellent sound insulation;
- availability;
- environmental friendliness.
Flaws:
- large mass - a solid foundation will be required;
- insufficient energy saving;
- difficult to process;
- long process of building a building.
Modern brick allows you to build a house of any size and design.
Cheap steel structure house
- Durable steel structures.
Today it is one of the most durable and affordable building materials, which allows you to build reliable structures, houses, etc. in the shortest possible time.
Advantages:
- affordable price;
- quick and easy installation;
- versatility - you can build any structure;
- Using modern finishing materials you can create a unique exterior.
Flaws:
- low strength;
- poor thermal insulation and sound insulation without additional insulating materials.
Durable steel structures today are becoming increasingly popular in the construction of private houses.
Cheap wooden house - is it true?
- Log or timber
A modern, stylish house made of logs looks amazing, and its high environmental friendliness, strength and thermal insulation make this building material stand out from others.
Advantages:
- high strength;
- environmental friendliness;
- excellent sound insulation;
- quick and easy installation;
- high thermal insulation;
- easy to process;
- relatively light weight;
- amazing appearance.
Flaws:
- price;
- the need for additional treatment against pests;
- fire hazard without special impregnations;
- low hydraulic stability.
A modern house made of logs or beams is stylish, practical and comfortable.
Favorite: cheap house made of foam concrete
- Foam concrete is the most profitable material for building a house.
A lightweight building material that surpasses others in its characteristics.
Advantages:
- quick and easy installation;
- high load capacity and low weight;
- high strength over time;
- excellent sound and heat insulation;
- light weight;
- reasonable cost;
- easy to process;
- environmental friendliness.
Disadvantages:
- the first few years after manufacture it has low strength;
- the porous structure of foam concrete will require additional finishing work;
- hot in summer.
Foam concrete is the cheapest way to build a house.
We looked at some of the most affordable building materials that can be used to build an inexpensive house. Today they are also widely used: twin blocks, monolith, ceramic stone, etc.
For example, the cost of a one-story frame house with two rooms, a kitchen, a living room and a bathroom will cost 600-700 thousand rubles. Thus, the cheapest frame houses can be built for relatively little money.
We also recommend:
If you have recently purchased a summer cottage, then the issue of building a small country house is very relevant for you. You can store household items, expensive tools in it, as well as create a small lounge and kitchen. In this article we will look at how to make construction of a country house inexpensively with your own hands, and also find out which materials you can save a lot on.
Construction of a country house inexpensively with your own hands
Of course, like any construction, it also needs to start with calculating the budget. How much money are you willing to spend on this project? If enough, then you can think about building a brick house. Otherwise, it is recommended to use borrowed frame house technology. The advantages of this method are obvious - saving money, as well as the efficiency of the work performed. In just a couple of weeks your house will be ready for use.
Stages of construction of a country house:
Creating a project. If you do not want to contact a specialized agency, then you can create your own project that will be convenient for you personally. The main thing that you have to do in any case is to show your finished project to professionals in order to avoid possible problems in the future. As for the area of the future home, it all depends on your personal preferences and capabilities. 40 sq.m. is quite enough.
Purchase of building materials. What materials are needed to build a country house with your own hands? Today the market offers a huge variety of high-quality, efficient and durable materials that are suitable for any construction:
- Log or beam. Wood will be needed in any case. Depending on the quality of the raw materials, the cost of the timber will fluctuate. Carefully inspect the material; it is important that it is thoroughly dried.
- Brick or cinder block. They have low cost, durability and reliability. Although building a house using these materials will not greatly affect costs, be prepared to spend a significant amount on subsequent wall finishing.
- SIP panels. High-quality, modern materials that not only save your money, but also time. A house made from SIP panels is warm, dry and comfortable.
Important! If you want to save money on materials, study the market thoroughly. You will be able to find high-quality raw materials at a big discount. You should not focus on branded companies, since they are the ones who mark up more than 50% on the price.
Where to start building a country house on a summer cottage?
The most important element of any country house is the foundation. The service life of the structure, its reliability and strength depend on it. Of course, the foundation should not be neglected, since any mistake or wrong action will immediately result in cracks and splits in the walls. Before digging a trench for the foundation, carefully calculate the weight of future materials - walls, roofing, sheathing, insulation and finishing. All this adds kilograms. Typically, the depth of the foundation of a house should be at least 1 m. After pouring, it must be left for a month to compact and dry.
Immediately after the foundation, you can begin building the frame and installing the roof truss system. It is also worth considering high-quality sewerage. If there is a central sewer system, then you should buy a septic tank with outlets to the irrigation fields.
So, is it possible to build a country house? inexpensively with your own hands? Certainly. The main thing is to plan and not rush to buy materials from the first person you meet.
See also video:
DIY garden cottage
Do-it-yourself summer houses for relaxation
Most summer residents live outside the city only in the summer and do not need expensive permanent homes. They want a roof over their heads and living space large enough to accommodate family members.
How to build a house with your own hands?
An optimal economic pension is best suited for this purpose.
Advantages of summer cottages
House boards are popular due to the following advantages:
- High level of construction - 2-6 weeks
- Low cost - from 3 to 8 thousand rubles per square meter. m versus 18 thousand rubles. per square meter. m for houses with brick walls
- Low weight, allowing the use of cheap, shallow foundations
- Resistance to freezing forces
- The ability to manufacture parts at the factory, which improves the quality of construction and simplifies assembly
- No shrinkage
- Wide range of architectural solutions
- Ability to warm up and adapt at home for life
Panel house design
The house consists of a wooden or metal frame covered with panels.
The metal frame is made of a rectangular cross-section, and the wooden frame is made of a rod. For external coatings:
- Lamels
- OSB panels
- Profiled film
- Moisture resistant plates
- Asbestos cement slabs
- toilet
The inner leather is made of moisture-resistant materials.
If the house is to be lived in all year round, the walls are lined with insulation.
Construction of panel houses
Construction companies offer services for the construction of turnkey panel holiday homes or a set of parts for their own construction. The first option frees the builder from most of the problems, while the other allows you to build a house for your dacha and save money.
Project selection
A quality project is the basis for success in building a house.
Serious companies that produce panel houses and key building kits offer dozens of standard models and offer custom design services.
Individual projects are quite expensive, so they are rarely used for economy-class houses.
Creating a standard project allows you to save on design and a wide selection of already prepared architectural solutions - choose the desired design and location of the house.
foundations
Under the light panel house, spacers and notches are used with columns and strips and screw pilots.
- Small hidden pillars reduce costs and shorten construction time.
Columns are installed at intervals of 1.5 to 3 meters under external walls and columns, at the corners of the building and in places where internal walls connect to external walls. They are made from logs, concrete, red brick, bentonite and base blocks. The depth of the coating is up to 40 cm, the cross-section should exceed the thickness of the walls. To increase stability, the columns are connected to wooden or reinforced concrete beams
- Countertops do not allow for a warm basement.
If the design is included in the design, a shallow recessed base underlay is applied under the exterior walls and a foundation base is provided under the interior walls. The depth of coverage and width of the tape are the same as for pillars. The belt is made from concrete, quarries or foundation blocks
- On weak floors it is based on screwdrivers.
Using them allows the house to rest on solid ground that is deeper than the surface. Helicopter bases can be built in 1 to 2 days without the use of heavy equipment
frame
The panel of a prefabricated house can be made from a kit made in a factory or from purchased materials, in-house or from a contractor.
Turnkey construction of a house eliminates most of the problems for the developer, with the exception of monitoring the execution of construction work - it is impossible to check the quality of the frame assembly on its surface.
To self-assemble the frame from factory parts, you must follow the instructions and wiring diagram included with the kit.
The work resembles a design meeting and is entirely possible for a developer with experience in construction.
The cheapest, but most worrisome option is to build the lumber itself. Depending on the size and number of floors of the house, the frame is made of a rod 100x100 - 150x150 mm or 50 mm thick.
The frame is installed in the following order:
- At the top of the base there is waterproofing of the roofing material
- For the foundation using built-in parts and anchor bolts to attach the frame (thresholds) - beams, it is located at the edge of the house and under the prairie
- Place logs and give rough soil.
Fits on the edges of the base or beam beam
- Install vertical skeleton posts - first on the corners and then on the walls of the 0.6 m shelf, installed on the cutout, sawn in the bottom panel, securing the clamp and nails and securing the first temporary and then permanent remainder.
At the same time, they constantly control their verticality and position in the same plane. The corner posts are made of sticks and you can use the same 50mm width edge plate for intermediate use
- In the upper places the top tape works. Framed door and window openings
All wooden structures must be impregnated with antiseptic compounds.
Overlapping and covering
Wooden columns are placed on the top frame of the frame and secured using structural clamps.
Width 3-4 meters - plate size 50x150 mm with a large range - 100x150-150x150 mm. The beam is 0.6 m. In this case, 1.8 m wide screens (modules) are used to cover the ceiling.
Rafting clusters are made on the floor on a panel 50x120-50x150 m.
First install the outer rafts, and then the intermediate elements that control the position of the rafters in one plane. Then make a box and close the roof. Roofing materials for a home should be lightweight, for example:
- Bituminous shingles
- Metal panel
- Profiled film
- Bituminous slate
Wall coverings
The width of the screens should be equal to the degree of installation of the frame rails and the length to the height of the walls.
Security guards are on offer at the workplace in the following order:
- Plates assembled
- On the frame there was a polyethylene film as a vapor barrier
- Guide the inner frame frame
- Frame facing, heater inserted inside
- Wind resistant protective membrane
- Get outer skin
The coat should be compressed over the frame by half the width of the frame frame to hide them.
The perimeter protection frame is covered with a heater and is tightly inserted between the frame frames. Application is done using nails. When using sheet material, it may be without a frame. The cutting blades are attached directly to the frame and the heater is inserted between the posts.
As can be seen from the description, the construction of a country house with a team of two or three people of average qualification.
Using factory modules significantly speeds up assembly. In just a few weeks after you start installing the frame, you can move into your cottage and enjoy the outdoors.
Videos on weekends
Simple holiday home
How to insulate a plate with your own hands in front of a path
Country houses made of foam blocks: building a house over the summer
Country houses made of foam blocks are lightweight and fireproof.
Thanks to the large dimensions of the blocks and precise dimensions, construction is carried out at high speed. It is quite possible to build a house over the summer.
The use of foam blocks in the construction of various structures guarantees heat conservation and fast pace of work. A country house made of this material will cost more than one made of wood, but less than one made of brick.
What are the benefits of foam blocks?
- They have a precise geometric shape and the dimensions are well maintained.
Therefore, they can be installed quickly
- Moisture resistant
- Inexpensive
- Strength increases over time
- They have very low thermal conductivity.
According to this indicator, it is one of the best materials for construction.
- They have a small specific gravity. Therefore, they are manufactured in fairly large sizes, which has a positive effect on the speed of wall construction
- Easy to handle
But there are also disadvantages
- Cannot bear heavy loads
- Slowly gaining strength.
In this case, shrinkage occurs.
DIY country house 6x6. Photo report. Part 1
And as a result, cracks may occur.
Use high-quality autoclaved foam concrete - it is less susceptible to shrinkage.
For the construction of one-story country houses, the strength of foam concrete is quite sufficient. In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the upper load-bearing row with reinforcement.
Foundation
Usually, when building a country house, a shallow strip foundation is used.
It can be done in different ways. 
- From prefabricated blocks laid without connection, freely
- Made from blocks, with reinforced belts installed above and below the blocks
- Made from rigidly connected reinforced concrete blocks
- Made from monolithic reinforced concrete
The choice of method is made depending on the properties of the soil.
The reinforced tape option is suitable for both subsidence and highly heaving soils. The width of the tape is made to exceed the thickness of the walls by 10-20 cm. Laying depth is up to 60 cm.
Base – within 40 cm.
On heaving soils, it is necessary to install a cushion made of non-freezing material.
Construction of the foundation
Stages of making a strip reinforced foundation with shallow depth.
- Marking
- Development of trenches.
If the soil does not crumble, trenches are made the width of the foundation. Their walls will act as formwork
- Filling a 30-centimeter sand and gravel bed in layers, compacting each layer.
The thickness of each layer is 10 cm
- Laying waterproofing material on the bottom and walls of the trench
- Installation of formwork under the above-ground part of the foundation (basement)
- Installation of fittings
- Pouring concrete
Foundation quality conditions
To build a quality foundation, the following conditions must be met. 
- The correct proportions of components in the concrete mixture
- There should be no air bubbles (voids) in the concrete.
To achieve this, use a vibrator or bayonet the concrete with a metal rod.
- There should be no interruptions during filling
After pouring, until the concrete hardens, it requires maintenance. It must be protected from the sun and watered in hot weather. Insulate in cold weather.
Rolled waterproofing material is laid on top of the foundation.
The overlap of stripes must be at least 15 cm.
Wall masonry
Before you start building walls, you need to check the horizontalness of the foundation. The permissible height difference is 3 cm.
If necessary, leveling should be done with cement mortar.
The upper plane of the blocks laid in the wall must be horizontal. That is, not only the edges running along the wall must be horizontal, but also those across them.
Horizontal control is carried out using a level. The position of the block is adjusted if necessary with a rubber hammer.
First row
The laying of the first row must be done with extreme precision - the accuracy of the construction of the entire house depends on this.
- Find the highest point of the foundation using a level.
The first block is laid in the corner closest to this point
- Then blocks are installed in all other corners
- A mooring cord is stretched between the corner blocks along the outer edge of the wall.
The first row is filled in using it
- If any unevenness in the masonry is formed, they are eliminated with a plane or sanding board. Dirt and dust are removed with a brush
Reinforcement
The reinforcement is laid on foam blocks after filling the first row, and then after laying every fourth row.
A smoothly curved rod is placed in the corners. 
- Using a grinder, grooves of 4x4 cm are made at a distance of at least 6 cm from the edge of the block
- The grooves are cleaned of dust and moistened with water.
- Cement mortar is placed in the groove to half the depth
- A rod moistened with water is laid
- The recess is completely filled with solution
A monolithic belt is made at the floor level.
It connects load-bearing walls along the entire perimeter and gives spatial rigidity to the entire structure.
For laying foam blocks the following can be used: 
- Cement-sand mortar
- Cement-sand mortar with added lime
- Adhesive for wall blocks
The solution with lime does not set so quickly and has good plasticity.
The glue allows you to make thin seams.
It has a fairly liquid consistency and does not set for a long time.
Block cutting
Usually a row cannot be laid using only whole blocks. You have to supplement it with chopped ones.
You can cut blocks with a hand hacksaw. The cutting line is drawn with a pencil on two adjacent sides to ensure an accurate cut. The cut surface is leveled with a sanding board or plane. A smooth surface is necessary to ensure good adhesion between the solution and the block.
Load-bearing walls
After laying the first row, you need to wait 1-2 hours until the solution sets.
Then the wall masonry continues.
- Corner blocks are laid and leveled
- The mooring is being stretched
- The row is filled with foam blocks
- Irregularities are removed with a plane or sanding board
The ligation sutures should be at least 10 cm.
The minimum length of the outer blocks (corner, opening) is 11.5 cm.
Internal load-bearing walls are connected to external ones by bandaging.
Partitions
- The junction of the partition is indicated on the load-bearing wall
- At this point, flexible connections (anchors) made of stainless steel are inserted into the seam. One end is in the load-bearing wall, the other is in the seam of the partition
- Anchors are secured with nails
Anchors are inserted into the load-bearing wall through a row.
It is allowed not to secure them with nails, but simply press them into the solution.
Door and window openings
You can buy factory-made lintels for the ceiling, or they can be made from homemade hollow foam blocks, having a P-shaped cross-section.
- Mark the locations of the cuts on the foam block
- Having cut through the grooves, chop off the inner part with a construction hammer
- Hollow blocks in the shape of an inverted letter U are laid over the opening on wooden supports.
These can be boards or beams. The supports can be nailed to the side walls of the opening
- 12-16 mm reinforcement is placed inside the cavity and concrete is poured. The supports remain until the concrete hardens.
You can lay foam blocks over the opening and on metal corners.
Roof
Wooden beams are usually used to construct floors in a foam block house.
The type of roof, its design and shape may vary. Its construction is not much different from this type of work when constructing houses using other building materials.
Exterior decoration
Although foam concrete does not penetrate to a great depth when exposed to moisture, the surface layer absorbs it quite well.
So if the walls are not covered with exterior finishing, they darken and begin to collapse.
The following can be used as exterior finishing for walls made of foam blocks:
- Hinged cladding installed with a gap (siding, decorative panels, house siding with imitation timber)
- Decorative plaster
- Composite panels
- Natural and artificial stone
- Painting with silicone paints
The construction of a country house from foam blocks is relatively inexpensive, and construction occurs quickly.
If you have some construction skills, it is quite possible to make such a house with your own hands.
Video about how to build a house from foam blocks
When building a house on a summer cottage, everyone wants to build one that will be comfortable to live in.
But coziness and comfort depend on the internal layout of the house. First of all.
And the layout itself depends on the size of the building, the number of people in the family, and the presence of small children. It also depends on whether you plan to live in the country only in the summer, or whether you want to come here all year round. There are some things you should definitely consider when deciding how to layout your home.
Layout of a one-story country house
Even a small house should have at least three rooms:
The kitchen can be positioned so that the entrance to the house is through it.
In this case, the kitchen room will also serve as a vestibule, which traps cold air if you come to the dacha in winter.
During cooking, the air in the kitchen heats up noticeably, which is also good for heating the house. This option is much better than building a cramped vestibule.
If you want to make a canopy, you can make it out of glass. Using profiles, double glazed windows and glass doors.
If you use your dacha all year round, you need to provide additional heating.
For example, you can plan a country house with a stove in the kitchen, the back wall of which opens into the next room.
This stove will heat two rooms at once. Well, you can install an electric heater in the bedroom. There are many economical modern models.
It should be taken into account that the house heats up much faster if good quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. It should be noted that the warmth in the house does not depend on the size of the windows, but on how well they are glazed. The best option is high-quality plastic windows with several panes.
If a country house made of laminated veneer lumber contains one room and a kitchen, then the living room is divided by a partition.
A bed is installed behind the partition. This house is suitable for a family of two.
If there is one more room in the house, albeit a small one, then it is quite possible to arrange a nursery there.
And the dacha will already accommodate a family of four.
These tips are also suitable for those who already have a small garden house. But many people want to increase the number of rooms and are thinking about building a second floor.
Features of the construction of the second floor
Many people think that a great option for increasing living space would be to arrange a second floor.
But you first need to find out how strong the foundation under the house is. It is likely that it will not be able to support the additional weight. You need to find out about this in advance, and not after cracks begin to appear in the walls and the house begins to collapse.
In addition to this, there are some other features. They must be taken into account before building the second floor.
If there is enough free space on the dacha plot, then it is always better to build a spacious one-story house.
It costs less, and living in a one-story house is more pleasant.
No need to climb stairs. This is especially important if there are elderly people in the house. After all, stairs in two-story dachas are usually steep. They are easier to build than flat ones. In addition, it is much more difficult to heat a two-story house than a one-story house.
If you are building a second floor, there is no need to make concrete floors. It's easier to make them from wood. The house will be warmer. It is best to lift the stairs from the kitchen if it is located immediately outside the front door.
Heat will not escape to the second floor from the living room.
On the second floor there are usually one or two bedrooms. It is best to keep bedrooms small to make them easier to heat. After all, living in a country house, a person enters the bedroom only to sleep.
But, it must be repeated that if the area of the plot allows, then it is better to build a more spacious one-story house instead of the second floor.
Construction of a terrace
Since people spend almost all their time outside in the summer, a covered terrace needs to be added to the house.
It can be located on the entrance side, then the terrace will also play the role of a porch. It needs to be provided with a good roof that will protect it from bad weather and the hot sun. It is also necessary to provide for the fastening of mosquito nets.
Some tips were given on how to make your country house more comfortable.
10 steps on how to build a country house over the summer
If a person plans to build a dacha from scratch, then he can plan it the way his heart desires. But not everything is as simple as it might seem. Below are the most common mistakes that people make when thinking about what kind of house to build on their summer cottage.
Of course, everyone’s tastes differ, but still, we will talk about those things that help reduce construction costs and increase comfort.
Mistakes when planning a country house
The house is too big
There is no need to build a house too big.
Thick walls in the house
Walls that are too thick require a more powerful foundation, and therefore extra costs.
Modern technologies make it possible to build lightweight houses, for example, frame houses, or from timber. Good insulation solves all heating difficulties, and the choice of high-quality material and qualified builders makes the house very durable.
Construction of a basement or ground floor
There is no need to create a large basement or basement floor unnecessarily.
These premises require high-quality waterproofing, insulation, ventilation and heating. For all this you need to hire specialists. Additional costs for building materials are required. Very significant. Also, do not build a base that is too high. This also increases costs.
If you plan to build a fireplace in the house, then you need to build it in the middle so that the heat from it spreads to adjacent rooms.
A fireplace built against an outer wall is completely irrational.
It seems that all things are very simple. But if you avoid these mistakes when planning your house, you can significantly save on building materials and construction time.
Video example of planning a country house using a special program
Posted on: 4-2-2016
For summer residents who are just going to build their first small house, my selection of 15 photos of country house design ideas will be very helpful. I must say, there is something to learn here and something to be surprised by, but what can I say - it’s better to see for yourself!
I draw your attention to the fact that there are no diagrams or plans here.
All material is provided for inspiration only. But, an experienced builder, if you show him a picture of a structure you like, he can easily build, if not exactly the same, then close to the original.
The first house simply captivated me with its canopy with a pointed roof. If it weren’t for this roof shape, it would have been just an ordinary country house! Agree, such a canopy roof, supported by slender wooden columns, gave the whole house sophistication and elegance!
A beautiful country house, to say the least!
And in this miniature house I really liked the turret at the very top. In terms of area, it is like a temporary shed, but the beautiful decoration of the walls, windows, tiles on the roof and this turret make it almost a palace!
By the way, flower boxes mounted under the window greatly improve the appearance of the facade, no matter how small it is!
This house is just very cute, especially the lattice windows and door.
This country house caused a storm of delight among my whole family.
I showed it to them, saying that we would build the same one for ourselves at the dacha. And a miniature terrace, and dormer windows on the roof! Just a peek. A miniature copy of a beautiful country mansion!
There is a lot of light in this house.
Choosing a garden house and its phased construction
because it has very large windows. But even in cloudy weather it is light and gives you a feeling of greater unity with nature! The pediment of this house is designed in an unusual way - it is decorated with two balusters.
And in this house there is a second light under the roof. Since there are no windows on one side, something like dormer windows are made under the roof itself.
True, from the photo it is clear that the owners use it as a workshop, but for newly-minted summer residents it could also serve as a shelter at night and from the rain.
A small wooden house with a canopy across the entire width of the roof.
A good solution - here you have a patio terrace, the wall of the house will protect you from the wind, and the roof canopy will protect you from rain and sun.
This little white house is just a fairy tale!
Elegant, romantic, with a pergola attached to it, it invites you to settle in and not know any grief! Still, white color adds sophistication to any building, even a very small one.
This interesting asymmetrical house has a frame structure and is lined with wood.
The originality of this building lies not only in its unusual roof, but also in the glazing of two walls, forming a “transparent corner” at the exit.
This house is simply attractive and well built.
The blue house under a tiled roof with white curtains looks very attractive.
It feels like the house has a caring owner!
And this bright house in front of a small pond made me feel tender. It is so small and so harmonious with its blue door and windows with tulle curtains that I wanted to sit down in front of it, dip my feet in the pond and daydream for an hour or two.
This house is made of wood, although it is low, it is very nice.
Well, the last house in the series of 15 best is a house with a trapezoidal canopy.
Beautiful, elegant, tastefully decorated - what else can you say! And there is a terrace next to it - there is a place to admire the stars in the evening!
Ideas for small cozy country houses
We could stop here, but there are so many ideas for small houses that I always want to look for something and share my finds with you.
Let me remind you that in America and Canada, the hobby of designing and creating houses on wheels of unusual shapes is very common. These are real residential buildings. I will continue to introduce you to interesting ideas for such houses. After all, if we exclude the wheels, then such houses will look great on our plots! Here is an overview video from the creators of this wonderful house.
There is no translation, but everything is clear.
My construction and life in the country
I would like to tell my story when we decided to live in the country and start all over again. In general, it so happened that our apartments did not exist, and in recent years we lived in rented apartments. And so life within the walls of others and frequent trips brought us - I wanted my own, peace and stability. But the way we live is not rich and can't buy anything, you decide to buy a Dacha (4sotki) and then another, we left the pages very cheap.
These sites are the same, we prepared that they were forced to leave all the bushes and trees from their homes, and yet they had the resources that I introduced sandstone and sand into the future of our home.
But after a few days we decided to give them a chance to defeat the house in the village, and then I brought the plate and two evenings (as I worked during the day), the house was almost ready. It looked like a trailer, but we were not aware of the beauty, it was already the end of September and cold and winter would soon be upon us. Below is a photo of creating a time zone
Construction of a cottage in the country - the beginning
He built it twice - he wanted it faster, but it got dark early, so he took a battery and a lamp with him. So, this house was looking for another night - it was not yet dark.
It worked like a screwdriver and wire, the design was very simple, so everything was done very quickly.
Cabin construction in the country
I then brought in some foam and the house was insulated with 10cm thick foam and foam sealed all the seams between the foam and all the openings.
He made the front door. And the interior, while there were bare slab walls. The next day he brought 200 pieces. red brick and it took two nights to build the brick. A photograph of the furnace design has not survived.
Construction of holiday homes
House dimensions 6.3 * 3m.
interior space 6*2.7, common living room 16.2 square meters, which had to accommodate four adults (me, mom and my two sisters) in the country, electricity, and this is what I thought about in advance. I made a wind generator, I installed a small battery and bought a 12/220 volt converter. The power of such a power plant was very small, because the wind turbine was small and was an irregular dean, also very low. But sometimes one energy-saving light bulb is enough.
All in all, it was a painful start, but a week into this construction, we moved into this period. The transfer took place on October 2, the same day as my sister’s birthday.
In the fall the woods were ready for the winter and a porch was added to the house.
The house is insulated externally with a vapor barrier, covered with film and internal shiny insulation. As a result, in the first winter we found out.
Winter in the country
In winter we were already at home with wind power for every 150 watts, there was enough electricity for lights and sometimes on TV, just as the wind was very weak and there was not enough battery power, but I saved everything for improvement, including the power plant.
I described everything about the plant in the section “My little adventures”,
Therefore, winter lived in such spartan conditions. My sister and I worked, paid in the spring, having accepted a loan 3 years ago, and at the beginning of the summer a new loan appeared, which spent the money on small items and bought a Chinese engine (110ss) to kill a tree, I went to him for a trailer trailer.
We bought a chain saw and two solar panels. up to 100 watts, so they were buying new batteries for the power plant until March.
In the summer, the porch was covered with luminous insulation to keep it cool in the sun, and solar panels were installed on the wall.
Even the lights on the street and in the house repeated the wiring.
Solar panels
In the summer, the wood was prepared for the entire year, and the motorcycle made 35 trips from nearby forest stands.
So I bought corrugated cardboard, wood, cement, and I put a new corrugated panel fence on the front.
Wood collection
At the same time, I poured a concrete pad under the base of the future of our house.
There was no swimming under the foundation, it simply grew and leveled the surface and spilled a 40 cm wide strip around the perimeter of the house.
How to build a house in Dachau: characteristics and construction phases
The thickness of the concrete is 10-15 cm. Below the photo are parts of the concrete. This is how we lived in the fall, photo after the rain, there was a bit of a mess outside as I searched and twisted the jars under the winter potatoes.
Life in the country
Life in the country
In addition, 11 meters were excavated in Dachau, I dug it myself, I was in a hurry for almost a month and poured concrete with concrete, but I finished it.
So, the tile broke through. He dug a basement on the site of the future house, filled the basement with concrete, and then made a hatch into the roof. Small details were done on details, but I will not list all the little things, only the important ones. I wrote about the break here - Well, with my job 2.
Fine
This year, at the beginning of spring, I took 7 plate cubes, bought ruins and cement and started with the main overflow.
The bottom part of the photo is the preparation of the irrigation panels. Last year the center of the concrete base under the furnace was flooded.
Foundation formwork
After installing the panel panels around the perimeter, he reinforced with a 10mm cast in two threads.
Then I invested in concrete and ended up like this.
Filling the foundation
The panel was attached with 6mm hex pins and once ejected it was easy to remove and remove the shell.
Filling the foundation
Then build the wall frame. The dimensions of the house are 6.30 * 10.80 m. The skeleton was placed alone, sometimes the truth helped the sister give or save something. All this has turned him into screws that pull themselves. bottom and top, then he used a homemade galvanized sheet metal plate.
DIY decorated house
DIY decorated house
DIY decorated house
DIY decorated house
Currently, the money for further construction has been completed.
Now you need to make money from corrugated cardboard and place a frame around the roof.
Continuation - second part of the frame
